Supco RCO810 3 n' 1 START Hard Start Kit , Black

Bought for a deep freezer that had a start relay issue on the compressor, typical "tick....tick" sound. instructions where clear and helpful, installation took a sum total of 10 minutes. and freezer works as designed. brought a ten plus year old freezer back from the dead and saved it from the scrap yard.

I used one of these to revive a 1995 upright Kenmore freezer that I use for homebrew fermentations. I moved the freezer recently and after letting it sit unpowered for a day when I plugged it in the compressor would start for 5 seconds then cut out though the blower would continue. The freezer wouldn't cool at all. A bit of googling pointed to the start relay as the likely culprit but that part, which is also used in this era's Whirlpool and Fridigaire freezers, was no longer manufactured and the only one I could find was $60 on Amazon. However it was sold in the marketplace and was shipped from overseas so I'd be taking a chance I could not return it if it didn't work. Continuing to look for solutions, I found a youtube video which showed how the Supco 3 n' 1 could be used to replace the start relay and since it was only $11 and sold by Amazon it was a less risky purchase. The only question before buying it was how much horsepower my freezer had, as that determined which Supco I needed to buy. My freezer apparently was 1/5 HP based on a website I found which equated amp and volts to HP so I went with the 810 as opposed to 410 model. Changing out the start relay and installing the Supco then zip tying it in place was about a 15 minute job. Make sure you remove all of the old starter relay so you can see the 3 pins on the compressor where the Supco connects and you then connect the two power wires from the old start relay to those on the Supco. The freezer immediately started working correctly again and has been for about a week. It is running more efficiently that it did with the old start relay based on how much electricity it is using now versus running with the old start relay as shown by my Kill-a-watt meter. Not bad for a 22 year old freezer.

I used to be a service technician and I have often used Supco products for cost effective and easy to install replacements for factory parts that are far more expensive. I have never had a problem with them failing so I feel that I can recommend these products for out of warranty equipment. I used this product to replace the start relay, overload and capacitor on a refrigerator that somebody had given me. The man didn't know what was wrong with this refrigerator as it occasionally wouldn't cool. I got it home, plugged it in and heard the familiar sound of the overload device as it clicked open because the compressor wouldn't start. I waited as it went through several cycles and finally it started. The refrigerator cooled but when it cycled off on the thermostat it wouldn't start again so I was confident that there was a problem with the start system, I checked online for replacement parts for this brand of refrigerator and they were far more expensive than what I was willing to spend so I ordered the Supco product.as a replacement. This is probably a product for a person who is somewhat familiar with compressors, wiring diagrams and schematics as it's not just a direct factory replacement part. However, I have always been satisfied with Supco products. This refrigerator works wonderfully and I'm thankful for is as it is newer and in better condition than my old one. .

My first time dealing with a compressor on a small Haier brand freezer. "Apparently" most all compressors have 3 pins that stick out of the case in a triangle arrangement, and THOSE PINS are what this 3n1 are to go on (which is why it comes with 3 odd looking push on connectors on the white, black and red wires). To GET to those 3 pins, you have to remove the plastic terminal block the old start capacitor connected to, and in my case, contained the start relay as well. Remove any old wiring, any screws, and pry the plastic block away from the compressor case, and you'll see the 3 pins coming out of the case. OK...ONCE you GET TO those 3 pins, you now have the problem (or I did) of which one is the START, which one is the RUN, and which one is the COMMON......because that is all the instructions with the 3n1 tell you to do.....connect white on the start pin....red on the run pin.....and black on the common pin. After watching several YouTube videos, I determined the top pin of the triangle is the common (black wire), the lower left is the start (white wire), and the lower right pin is the run (red wire). I connected them that way, then the two black wires with no connectors splice into the 120v black and white supply coming from the thermostat (color/polarity not important) using the two supplies wire nuts, and you're good to go. Mine started up immediately and took the freezer down to the thermostat setting in a couple hours.

Like others have stated- this thing is the bomb. My fridge had been acing 'funny' off and on for about a year. occasionally the freezer section would slightly defrost - I was puzzled as I keep the coils clean, and the fridge was always running properly when I checked it. I suspected mis-use; ie the door being blocked open a hair as I did find it in that state several times, kids not being careful. Saturday afternoon the fridge quit running, ice melting, etc. Compressor was HOT to the touch, but not running. It was pulling 10amps and just acting as a heater! So the contactor was working but the OE capacitor was failing to start the motor. called the local appliance/repair store, described the issue, they actually said 'sounds like you need a hard start kit' and gave me this part number, as they had none in stock! Amazon delivered 8am the next day and the fridge was working like new by 8:30am. Didn't even lose much food, as I had purchased 40lbs of ice, placed it in the freezer, disconnected the compressor & let the circulation fans blow. Installation is the only semi sketchy part. You do have to figure out which of the pins is which. Watch a few videos and you should be able to figure it out. The unit seems much more robust than the OE components. I strapped it in place and am leaving it there. I am purchasing another just to have 'on the shelf' in case my chest freezer or a friend/neighbor has a similar issue. Oddly, my house AC unit (20yrs old) had the start capacitor go out this spring as well. My advice: they are cheap - keep start/run capacitors ON HAND for you HVAC and refrigerators. cheap insurance.

Like most people, I don't have an extra $1,500.00 laying around, so I went the do-it-yourself route. I had two problems with my refrig - 1 - It just started defrosting so I took off the back and discovered the cooling motor seized-up, which I thought was the problem why the compressor was NOT coming on. Replaced the cooling motor with a new one and fixed that problem, but still the compressor was still not coming on. 2 - So I took the next step and ordered the Supco RCO810 3 n' 1 START Hard Start Kit, which is very simple to install. Plug it in and it took about 15 minutes to kick in. My refridg runs like new again. I got slammed for the price of the cooling motor - About $153.00, but the main fix was the Supco RCO810 3 n' 1 START Hard Start Kit at a VERY LOW Price of around $12.00. Al-in-all I am thrilled my refridg is work again. It took me about a week ordering parts and loosed some food, but I saved about $1,400.00 for a new double-wide. With a little common sense and research you can fix just about ANYTHING. Praying help also.

This is a great product. I watched videos of people installing it very quickly into various refrigerator systems. I received mine, installed it in under 5 minutes, and the fridge was up-and-running! BUT - and this is IMPORTANT (!) - after a day or two, my wife complained that the fridge had frozen all of her fresh produce. I realized, to my horror, that the compressor had been running non-stop since I installed the device. As I thought about the wiring, I realized that it completely bypassed the thermostat wiring. There was no way for the compressor to know when the desired temperature had been reached, so it just kept on going (and was very hot). I can't believe I didn't think of this - but I'd blindly followed the simple instructions provided and used the leads that connect directly to the compressor's pins. What one needs to do is put the thermostat in series with the circuit. I decided to snip the "common" (black wire of the three red, white, and black wires) and tie in the thermostat wires in between (using two more twist-on wire connectors). I'm not an electrician, but this seems to do the trick - I've already tested it and the thermostat is now turning the compressor off and on again as needed. I think this is a serious issue - a compressor running non-stop gets incredibly hot and is probably a fire hazard. So if you're installing in a fridge (mine was a compact fridge) think carefully about what you're doing when you wire it in. I've given it three stars because the instructions were misleadingly simplistic and there doesn't seem to be more detailed information provided on their website for such situations.

Excellent value. A must to have on hand for if your fridge stops cooling! High quality build, no perceived noise, and perfect fit and quick to switch on. Fridge stopped cooling, tested the relay and it was bad, so ordered one of these to see if it worked as advertised and because I could get it quicker than a replacement relay and it worked perfect. I could've used this long term but replaced the relay with correct part and now I keep this around as a temporary fix for if it happens again, because it would save hundreds in food cost.