BIGTREETECH Direct Eddy Duo Auto Bed Leveling Sensor, 3D Printer High Speed Auto Leveling Kit, Support CAN/USB Connection, for Voron2.4 Stealthburner Trident VzBOT Hurakan, Klipper Only

I recently upgraded my 3D printer with the BIGTREETECH Direct Eddy Duo Auto Bed Leveling Sensor, and I’m absolutely impressed with the results! First off, installation was incredibly easy. The sensor itself is compact and well-built, and the mounting process was straightforward, especially with the included hardware and clear instructions. It was up and running on my printer within 15 minutes, and I was immediately able to start using it for auto-bed leveling. What really stands out about the Eddy Duo sensor is its accuracy and reliability. The sensor does an excellent job of detecting the bed surface, even with minor inconsistencies. I noticed an immediate improvement in my first layers, which are now more consistent and much smoother than before. It eliminates the need for constant manual leveling, which saves me time and effort before each print. I also love that it works really well with a variety of surfaces—whether you're using a glass bed, powder-coated surface, or even magnetic build plates, the Direct Eddy Duo does a great job of ensuring your bed is perfectly leveled every time. This has really helped improve print adhesion and reduce issues with warping or uneven layers. Another plus is that the sensor is fast and responsive, with minimal setup required. The sensor sensitivity is spot-on, and I’ve had no issues with false triggering or inaccuracies. It just works reliably, print after print. Overall, the BIGTREETECH Direct Eddy Duo Auto Bed Leveling Sensor is an outstanding upgrade for any 3D printer, especially if you're looking for consistent and hassle-free bed leveling. It offers excellent performance at a reasonable price, and I’ve already noticed a significant improvement in my print quality. Highly recommend it to anyone who wants to make their 3D printing experience smoother and more reliable!

This has worked amazingly. It does suffer from heat drift, but that shouldn't matter for most people. I have a sv08 with a pretty warped bed, and I use this for a mesh and "tap" automatic offset calibration. As long as I move the head away from the bed while I heat soak the bed (up to about z 100) it works every time. If I leave it too close to the bed while it heat soaks, it fails tap calibration due to heat drift, but this is fixable by just cooling down the print head by moving it up again.

I will preface this with stating I have done no high temp ABS/ASA printing with this yet. This is running on a K1M with Simple AF software and it works really well. First layer is very nice every time. This probe is not ready to install out of the box it needs firmware and the correct version of Klipper to work. Bed mesh takes seconds and adaptive meshing is lighting fast. It is super important to get the calibration correct for this to work for you. The best way to confirm the calibration is to go through the process and then home everything and take the nozzle to Z 0. If you have a nice paper compression you will have nice first layers.

I have had many BTT products in my life, but this one by far has the worst instructions for the actual wiring of the probe. Going off their own instructions you would think this means it is plugged into usb on a RPI, but that is not the case. It is plugged into the CAN to USB port on the BTT RPI, which if the little red line was labeled CAN to USB I would still have my RPI4 ....... Yea, it killed it and my microsd card. now I have to order the BTT pi because in 2025 they still can't make a proper set of instructions. There is no mention of this anywhere, and the ONLY instructions you get for wiring it in this configuration is this picture. Clear as mud, par for the course with BTT documentation. 1 star for the lack of 5v warning.

In regard to the hardware and how it functions, I'd give that five stars. Regarding getting it installed and functional, probably two stars, which is why I suspect it's a frequently returned item according to the listing. Your mileage on this may vary and experience with 3D printer hardware and Klipper especially will play a major role in how well it goes for your specific situation. The rig I have this installed on is an Ender 3v2 running Klipper from a Raspberry Pi 4B and a BTT SKR E3v3 motherboard instead of the stock Creality 4.2.2.2. The Eddy is connected directly to the Raspberry Pi via the included USB cable instead of directly to the SKR like a CR Touch normally would be. So, basically the Eddy talks directly to the Pi and Klipper. Where this gets tricky is in figuring out the correct bed boundaries and proper calibration. Calibration is crucial for anything on a 3D printer, but especially so with the Eddy. Not only do you have to set a Z offset via the paper method, but you have to calibrate an array of thermal values as well so the Eddy can adjust its thermal compensation. Something else noteworthy is that once you have it calibrated, you don't adjust it on the fly like you would a normal Z Probe. For example, in order to make sure I have my Z Offset adjusted properly with a BL Touch, I'll print a large square and adjust the Z height in Klipper until it's just right. That (by default) doesn't work with the Eddy making it (as mentioned above) very important to spend the time during the initial calibration in order to get it as accurate as possible. There is a beta feature that can be enabled that will let you do this but I wouldn't make a purchase decision based on that. It seems as though their goal was to prevent us from having to bother with this but I'm guessing some users have had issues getting the initial calibration correct and want to be able to manually adjust the Z Offset value. I tried this out and once I had the offset adjusted, it worked great. The problem I had was that the adjusted value wasn't storing properly or something, so after a restart the calibration would be way off and I'd have to adjust it again. This caused me to spend a couple of days figuring out why it would work and then not. Ultimately, I went back to the default calibration method and just spent more time with it and now it works great. Once you have it working though, bed probing is so much faster and smoother than a touch sensor. I've read that it's not as accurate but I've not (and am no qualified to) tested this.