Ford Genuine 5.4L 3V Vct Control Solenoid 8L3Z-6M280-B - OEM, 1 Pack

If you are going to rebuild your 5.4 L 3V triton engine, then you already know that it is a time-consuming Job, and you do not want to do it twice.I got this kit and I rebuilt my 5.4 3V, and now my engine is as quiet as can be, running perfectly, and throwing no error codes. I also did the rockers, the hydraulic lash adjusters, the VVT solenoids, a high volume Melling oil pump, and a number of other “while you are in there” jobs.I strongly recommend using genuine Ford for the engine internals (with exception to the Melling high-volume oil pump). The build quality, the fit, the finish, and the modifications implemented by genuine Ford are essential for this job. You do not want to mess around with counterfeit or aftermarket on this and you do not want to save a buck because all you’re going to do is have to redo the job or, worse yet, ruin your engine.I purchased these directly from Amazon, from “OEM Select Parts” and the parts were shipped from Beshore and Koller Ford, a dealer out of Manchester PA.

Ordered twoBoth are OEM and Fomoco stamped.

Exact replacement for 2010 F150 5.4L. My old one was stuck and the filter screen torn. This is not a hard project but you will have to remove the valve cover and some additional harnesses. I would recommend oiling the seal before pushing it and setting in place. It will be a tight fit but as it should be. Do not over tighten the one screw that holds in in place. Would recommend.

Well if you have a 5.4 3valve and want to install these at home. I would first check to see if you have the small round 1-3/8” gaskets around the solenoids. After watching countless utube vids I was under the impression that no matter what year the motor was 2004-2009 you can change these without taking the valve covers off. IT IS NOT TRUE!! Mine is a 2008 built in 07 has the smaller round gaskets. After getting a t27 torx bit to fit the screw. 1/2 hour of fussing to actually get it to catch on the screw head. Tap it in then it unscrewed very easily. Reached in and grabbed the solenoid pulled it up and it won’t fit out the hole! In no fashion could I get it out. I took out the new gaskets and compared it to the new solenoid. Measured The distance from the screw mount edge and the far side of the solenoid 1-1/2”is wider then the gasket! So dbl check before ordering to make sure if you can get it out the hole. The bigger gaskets I’m sure u can but with the small round ones you’ll need to take off the valve covers.

OEM. Good quality. I would recommend buying these on here, dealership have them between $80-$110 each

Worked fantastic in my 2008 Ford Expedition EL with 5.4L 3V Engine. Near the 100,000 mile mark I noticed an intermittent check engine light appear on longer trips. Of course, I did nothing. it went away. lol. Around 103,000 miles after the engine warms up it started knocking and sounding like a diesel truck near idle. It shook violently. Check engine light remained permanently on. Drove to AutoZone to get my codes read. They told me it read 'Cam Position Snesor' over and over again. I purchased a couple of cam position sensors. I'm keeping the truck, I don't mind replacing some cheap parts at $15/per sensor and I figure they might go bad eventually anyway. So I replaced both cam sensors and of course it wasn't the problem. After more google searches I find out about VCT solenoid problems in these 5.4L engines. Makes them sound like a semi and shake when slowing down from around 1200 RPMs. Stop signs, fast food drive thru and slow driving through parking lots make it act up badly. I had HOPE that I could just pop open the seal stick a 27T torx bit screwdriver down in there and replace both in about 30 minutes. Of course not! 2007-2013 Expeditions are made so the valve cover needs to come off to get at these. So be aware, If the seal around this solenoid doesn't have a tab for a screwdriver to 'pop it off' then you're going to have to remove the valve covers to get these out. It won't even fit up through the hole, I wasted 1/2 a day on this! Hopefully you won't. Long story short, once both valve covers were removed the solenoids were replaced. They were both gunked up pretty badly. Got everything all back together properly and I reconnected the battery followed the PCM re-learn prodedure in my owners manual (basically let the truck idle in drive with A/C on full and your foot on the brake for a full minute) and the truck sounds wonderful, gets better gas milage and sounds like new! I figure I saved myself about $1000, after all is said and done. If you're one of the lucky people who get to remove valve covers like me, at least you can check a bunch of other parts that might be going bad in there. Hit youtube and Ford forums. I hope this helps someone out there!

Worked like a champ

If you are considering this redesigned Genuine Ford part, you need to consider the other genuine Ford parts that have been redesigned for a more reliable Variable Cam Timing (VCT) system. The basic idea of the redesigned parts is for smaller oil port orifices to increase oil pressure and lubrication within the VCT system. In addition to this part: 5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford VCT Solenoid 8L3Z-6M280-B you should consider these latest Ford parts:5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford Cam Follower Rocker Arm 3L3Z-6564-A (replaces 3L3Z-6564-BA)5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford Hydraulic Lash Adjuster 5L1Z-6500-A5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford Camshaft / Cam Phaser 3R2Z-6A257-DA (comes with one time use 15mm bolt)I did not like reusing the Ford Cam Tower Bolts so I used the ARP Cam Tower Stud Kit 12-Point 3V 4.6L 2005-2010 ARP: 156-1001. These are not bolts. They are studs with washers and nuts. A much better design and quality fastener.All Ford and ARP parts are typically available on Amazon. Extremely critical to only buy Ford Genuine parts to get the latest VCT redesign. Also extremely critical to use the correct oil weight and do required oil changes.The picture I added shows the latest redesigned part on the left. Notice the smaller oil port orifice.