ArisakaOptic Leveler Combo – Precision Mounting Tool for Scopes OL-Combo

Like other posters have said, so simple yet it is ridiculously effective.I had been having issues leveling a long range rifle scope. I just could not get it exactly perfect. Saw these on Amazon and gave them a try and I am a believer now for sure. Verified with a pendulum, the crosshairs are dead on perfect.Simple to use:Loosen your scope rings up just a little so you can turn the scope with some effort, but so it is not sliding around.Slide the little flat piece with the cut in it onto your rail or flat spot on your mount. It fits perfectly on a picatinny rail.Slide whichever angle piece (writing side up/readable) into the cut on the flat piece so it is on the flat bottom piece of your scope at the knobs area.Work it back and forth and move the scope back and forth til it seats tight and you can't see any daylight - check both side to verify it is tight.Tighten your scope back down with the unit still in place, holding the scope level and work it out as you are tightening.Tada - level scope!Now note there are some limitations here you should be aware of.1.) Clearance between your scope and mount/rail. The scope I was mounting had a ton of clearance between the scope and mount and I used the system easily. Another rifle I have, there is not enough space to even get the flat part in between the scope and rail. Something to pay attention to. If the bottom if your scope is millimeters off the top of your route, this may not work for you.2.) It's not me, it's you! - Your scope could be an issue. If it is a scope of lesser quality or a scope that has a defect in it, you might level the scope with this unit and have it be totally flat but when looking through your scope, the crosshairs are canted. That would be a manufacturing issue with the scope and you will have to use a pendulum or eyeball it instead so the crosshairs are truly aligned based on what you see through the scope. If you are using any of the big scope players like Leupold, Vortex, Nightforce, etc. you should be fine.

I wrote the company about this product about the base plate needing to be a little longer and the two angled pieces being manufactured as a single longer piece. I received a prompt response but only about the two angled pieces. Their thoughts were it is easier to handle as two shorter pieces. Still the little base plate could be longer to better straddle a weaver rail, although it reached across just barely enough to be able to use. $38 is a pretty steep prices for a few small machined pieces of aluminum but the design is really effective and much easier than trying to use digital levels which cost $$ too. I was able to correct one of my scopes that I suspected being out of level and easily leveled a new scope.BUT you have to have two opposing flat surfaces to use this tool. One on the rifle which has to be perpendicular to the vertical plane of the rifle, such as a mounting rail, and one on the scope itself such a flat surface on the bottom of the scope, for my scope this was on the bottom of the tube where the scope adjustments are housed, and then they have to be in line with each other and far enough apart to slide the tool between. Which was the case with my two scoped rifles. There is a YouTube video demonstrating this which shows what I have tried to explain here and I recommend viewing it BEFORE making this purchase.

This is so simple, so intuitive that you’ll question if you have a learning disability after the complicated process you’ve used to level your scope in the past.

Out of using playing cards, feeler gauges, plumb line, and the reticle guides - these are the easiest to use for leveling the reticle of a scope. They are extremely well made and the combo kit comes with the small and big wedges to fit a variety of applications. Except when it doesn't... An example would be a 30-35mm scope tube (a bigger tube) with a really low mount, like a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50 with an American Defense AD-RECON-SL super low mount designed for a bolt-gun running a Picatinny rail. There's not enough clearance to slip the base of this Arisaka in let alone a small wedge. In that application, playing cards or feeler gauges are needed.I will say that I spent quite some time leveling this scope/mount combo over the year. I started with a plumb line, then used a Segway Reticle Leveler. It looked fine to me, but on certain days it didn't look fine to me. I then read Vortex's instructions a bit closer and saw they recommended feeler gauges. After playing with the playing cards, feeler gauges, and Arisaka leveler on other scopes I went and checked my Diamondback with feeler gauges - sure enough it was ever so slightly canted (by like a human hair's thickness).To sum it up, these are great for most scope and mount applications. Make sure the center part of your scope is flat at the bottom (step 1). Then make sure you have a quality mount that is machined flat beneath the scope (step 2). Then make sure you have enough clearance to insert this tool (Step 3), otherwise you will need to resort to playing cards or the feeler gauges.Overall: 4/5 stars - if they made this a bit thinner, it would have been perfect.

Just What I was Looking For

I bought this and leveling scopes became easy. If you change or mount a lot of scopes, just buy it.