50W 6Ohm LED Load Resistors for LED Turn Signal Lights or LED License Plate Lights (Fix Hyper Flash, Warning Cancellor)

Update 10/01/2017: Everything's still working perfectly.These gizmos immediately cured the hyper-flashing caused by the Lumen 3157 PlaZma LEDs that I installed in our 2014 Chevy Impala's tail light assemblies.In the Impala, a single 3157 Bulb handles Tail / Park / Stop / Turn Signal / Emergency functions (a separate 194 bulb serves as a Marker light). It was the Turn Signal and Emergency Flasher functions only that caused issues.The resistors I bought locally are clearly the same thing--I just paid too much for mine! These resistors are marketed under several brand names. For reasons unknown, mine said "For Off-Road Use Only!" Go figure--it's the same thing you see here. They're clearly the same product, practically identical, and made to the same specs (50W & 6Ohm).All these things do is waste current by converting it to heat, to mimic the inefficient light bulb you just replaced with an efficient LED! This fools your car's CPU into thinking the old bulb is still there, wasting electricity! How cool is that?Using a (light-in-handle) line tester, I quickly located the blinker wire (yellow in this case) and connected one lead of the resistor to the black common ground wire and the other to the yellow blinker wire, both of which fed into the 3157 bulb's socket. That's it--done deal!I left the turn signal run and immediately saw that the hyper-flash was cured. The emergency flashers worked right too. I also noticed that this resistor got perceptibly warmer, but there was none of the intense heat buildup that I'd been warned about... So, I secured the resistor to one of the tail light's four mounting posts with two zip-strips, and that was that!It's only been a week, but everything's 5X5.I knocked off one star for the complete lack of instructions enclosed. Fortunately, I pretty much knew what I was doing and why... There's You Tube on this if you get stuck.BUY YOURS ON AMAZON AND SAVE $$$$$As another reviewer mentioned, the other route you might take is to swap out your OEM Flasher Relay with an "LED Compatible" Flasher Relay. But that route is not exactly "Plug and Play" for everybody either... And the relay module may not fit neatly into your fuse box...One day all this LED stuff will be standard... But we get to live in the "transition time". Good luck, guys! Remember You Tube!UPDATE 04/18/2016: Installed two more of these--from Amazon this time--along with two JDM Switchback Amber/White LED Running Light/Turn Signal Bulbs, which I installed into my new SPEC-D Tuning 2LHP-IPA06-TM Projector LED U-BAR Headlights. As advertised, they cure the hyper-flashing you see when switching to LED bulbs.I prefer solderless crimp-connectors wrapped in electrical tape to these quickie line-tap thingies.Note: If you attach these resistors to the ground and the blinker wires only, I have found that they do not get all that hot. In my 2014 Impala, that's the yellow and the black wires.Note: I used a stainless steel key-ring and a zip-strip to suspend the Resistor behind each headlight module, where it radiates any heat away harmlessly. The metal key ring attaches to the resistor, and the zip-strip attaches the key ring to the car's frame. Zip two or more strips together if you have to, to get the needed length!Note: In some applications these resistors will get hot enough to melt plastic or even cook the paint off of a metal surface. If this is an issue, you're better off not attaching the resistor (heat sink) directly to the surface in question. The are are High Temperature Double-Sided Mounting Tapes available, but I have no experience with them. Suspending the resistor allows heat to dissipate harmlessly.RayB

Converting turn signals from standard incandescent bulbs to LEDs is very popular due to the LED superior brightness and durability. The problem with many older cars is that the flasher unit needs to see a certain amount of current draw in order to blink properly. LEDs draw very little current and so the flashers may not work.The solution is to retrofit the flasher with an electronic type that works with LEDs, however this isn’t always enough. In my case, 1987 S-10, the hazard flasher would not work with the LEDs, and a replacement flasher was not easy to retrofit.In this case you can install these “load” resistors between the turn signal wire and ground. The resistors increase the current draw of the turn signals when using LEDs and the stock flasher can function as intended.The installation is fairly easy and the resistors come with crimp taps so in theory you should not have to cut any wires.A simple solution. Note you only need these on turn signals and not running lights. I installed them on the front turn signals because they were easier to get to.

Purchased these to correct hyper flash on my bike after switching to LED blinkers and so far so good, they don't seem to get crazy hot when blinkers are activated. would purchase again.

Hmmmmm...I bought these as loads to a new LED tail light assembly I purchased for my motorcycle. The resistance is right as the blinkers now flash slowly like the old bulbs did but I'm not real keen on the power dissipation, they get real hot. Too hot to touch and to safely tuck them into some wiring harness and forget about them.I ended up installing them mounted to two heat sinks that really cut down on the temps. Before the heatsink they would get too hot to touch in less than a minute of blinking, after the heat sink they're fine.The thing about these type of metal finned resistors is they aren't good for their rated power dissipation unless they are mounted to something that sinks heat. Running at 32 watts in a typical 14 Volt system w/o heat sinks is cutting it pretty close and I'm glad I added them.I ended up cutting a PC microprocessor heatsink in half and tapping some screws and adding thermal compound. Works great.Followup:2 years later I looked up underneath and took some pictures. They're still in great shape. The bike is a BMW so not sure how many other bikes have this small compartment tucked up in the fender.Here's the math if anyone's interested.Ohm's Law says:Power = current x voltage.Current = voltage divided by resistance.Plug some numbers into the formula:Current = 14v divided by 6 ohms = 2.33 amps.Power = 2.33 amps x 14v = 32.6 watts.If the resistors are unmounted, the power is de-rated to 25% of what's listed on the resistor so 50 watts becomes 12.5 watts. BUT, the duty cycle is approximately 50% (it's flashing in a blinker circuit only on half the time) so power can go up to 25 watts. Since the electrical circuit they're in pulls 32.6 watts, these resistors will get hot since they're being overdriven for their ratings when not used with a heatsink.Tl,dr, they need a heatsink.

worked great for my LED headlight conversion from original halogens. LED headlights didn't consume enough electricity to allow the high beam indicator light on dashboard to light up. Simply installing the resistor into the now unused headlight socket the indicator lights up as original. Cheap and easy fix.

Just the trick to get the LED union jack rear lights on my Mini Cooper S R53 from hyperflashing. Easy to fit, took about 40 minutes in all and now lights work perfectly.

Installed these when I changed from halogen to LED turn signals. The turn signals work great, so these are doing their job. Installation was easy on paper, but more from the space under the hood of my car, it was a little frustrating. The t-taps (red clips) are great, no need to cut any wires.

Very easy to install, polarity does not matter. They stopped the hyper flash issue with the turn signals. It also solved the issue with my new led brake lights which was making my cruise control and remote starter not function. They both work again.

Work perfect, thanks very much. I used them for my motorcycle turn signals. I have an integrated headlight and without this device my signals would stay on solid and make my tears go solid. Solved the problem. Easy to use.

It's been a year since I installed them and they're still working great. The resistors do run hot so make sure they are not in direct contact with other wires or any plastic parts.