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🧱 Fix it once, fix it right — the pro’s choice for concrete revival!
PC-Masonry Epoxy Adhesive Paste is a high-strength, two-part epoxy designed for professional-grade masonry repairs. With 1690 PSI tensile strength and moisture resistance, it bonds on wet or dry surfaces and cures quickly without sagging, making it ideal for vertical, overhead, indoor, and outdoor applications. Its durable, paintable finish ensures your repairs blend seamlessly while withstanding extreme temperatures from -20°F to 200°F.













| ASIN | B008DYMU5I |
| Brand Name | PC Products |
| Color | Gray |
| Compatible Material | Concrete |
| Container Type | Can |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (252) |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00549830732090 |
| Item Form | Paste |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Weight | 454 g |
| Manufacturer | Protective Coating Co. |
| Material Type | Paste |
| Model | 73209 |
| Other Special Features of the Product | moisture resistance, versatile application |
| Specific Uses For Product | Masonry, Repair, Wall Repair |
| Tensile Strength | 1690 Pounds Per Square Inch |
| UPC | 054983073209 549830732090 |
| Volume | 32 Fluid Ounces |
B**Y
I just restored two concrete urn style planters that have been in my family for over 45 years. The bases of them were deteriorating. One had an entire corner broken off and the other one had two corners gone and the rock and concrete falling out of the bottom of the base from deterioration. The vase part of the planters was fine, but the bases were in dire need of repair. I decided to try this stuff. It is great to work with and set up hard as concrete. Though very easy to work with, be sure to keep tight fitting vinyl gloves handy so you can smooth with your finger or work the epoxy if you need to. I kept a small plastic bowl with some rubbing alcohol (that's all I had available) next to me as I did the work. The alcohol will break down the epoxy a little bit so you don't want to use it until it has started to set up good and then just barely dab your gloved finger and you can smooth and work it how you need to. I had such big hunks to build out that I did my project over a few days. I could manage an inch or so thickness at a time though. I would let that cure for the day and build on it again the next day until I got the bases built out to their normal size. There is no sag when working with small amounts and very little when working with bigger blobs of it. I just kept my eye on it as it cured and lifted or worked it softly with just barely a touch of alcohol to get it back in place. The alcohol just keeps it from sticking to your vinyl glove. The alcohol is great for cleaning the epoxy off of your spatula. I just used a plastic spackling spatula for applying and cardboard to mix the epoxy on. I also had an unused paint stick that I rubbed a little alcohol on and put up against it to form my straight edge for the base. I left it for over 30 minutes before carefully removing it and then I just barely smoothed it with a gloved alcohol finger and it all worked out great. The product is gooey in the beginning and tacky as it is curing. As you use the epoxy, you will get a feel for how many minutes you need to wait to really be able to work it how you want it. It's a great product. I am really proud of how the planters turned out. I really never thought it was possible for them to look this good again. They have been in the family for so long, I definitely wanted to be able to save them. Thanks to this epoxy, I was able to.
D**K
This stuff is great. I used it to repair a crack in my basement floor where water was seeping in and it stopped the leak. I also used it to repair my steps where salt had corroded the concrete so badly it was chipping and a big chunk had actually broken off. Not much time has passed since then, so I’ll see how it goes with that. It’s been at least 3 years for my basement floor. What’s great about this stuff is it’s easy to spread into small cracks. I just use a putty knife. This stuff actually has a little bit of flex to it, so it’s perfect for areas where temperature changes can cause stuff to shift a little. It’s pretty expensive. But this 32 oz set I bought has been sitting for almost 3 years and it was still good. It was sealed of course. I’m ordering more to repair a couple other spots. It dries fairly quickly, but it doesn’t tend to run or drip as far as I can tell. It takes about 4 hours to get hard enough to walk on I’d say. I’d recommend wearing gloves, but I got it all over my hands and had no trouble cleaning up and no adverse reactions. With other epoxy I’ve had significant skin reactions that were painful, not with this stuff. My patch isn’t pretty, but I don’t care too much about that. It could have been prettier but this stuff ain’t cheap. I can definitely see using this stuff on a variety of surfaces. But it works well on concrete.
W**E
After looking through many products (almost all available in the United Kingdom but not here) and speaking to customer service at Rutland telling me they used to make such a product for repairing bricks I ordered PB Epoxy in the two jars that mixed provide 32 ounces of epoxy. You can see in the photos what the seven or so bricks looked like prior to the repair, what tools I used, what the seven or so bricks looked like after the repair and what the seven or so bricks looked like after painting. NOTES – I applied it the first time at 70F and the second time at 85F. Based on this I decided to pick the 70F time of day because it is easier to apply. I found this material is easy to mix, has at least the advertised working time and cures as stated. Keep in mind their different sizes are NOT the same product. They list them all on their website in a chart to show the strength of each sized product and they are all different. I used no bonder before putting on this epoxy. I used approximately 2/3rds of the product. When dried I opted to sand it rough and sprayed it with Krylon Red Oxide Primer. Steps 1 – Remove loose crumbling bits of brick with light taps of a cold chisel and hammer 2 – Remove what bits are left with a stiff brush 3 – Put on gloves 4 – Open Part A White 5 – Take a glob of Part A with the painters’ tool and place it on a piece of cardboard 6 – Close Part A 7 – Wipe the painters’ tool with a paper towel 8 – Clean the painters’ tool with mineral spirits 9 – Open Part B Black 10 – Take a glob of Part B with the painters’ tool and place it next to Part A on the cardboard 11 – Close Part B 12 – Mix Part A and Part B on the cardboard until uniformly gray in color 13 – Apply using the painters’ tool to the brick (no worry about getting it perfectly even of filled in yet) 14 – Wipe whatever got on mortar or anything else with your finger or a paper towel 15 – Wipe the painters’ tool with a paper towel 16 – Clean the painters’ tool with mineral spirits 17 – Let the epoxy dry about four (4) hours 18 – Sand epoxy to make it rougher 19 – Repeat steps 3 to 18 until you are happy with the smoothness 20 – Use painters’ tape (not in pictures but the blue stuff) to mask in each brick 21 – Spray paint epoxy
P**T
This is an excellent product. We used it to re-set some 2" thick fieldstone pavers on a pre-existing set of poured concrete porch stairs, and then to re-set a wrought-iron rail through holes in the top and bottom paver. They had originally been set using standard thinse (portland cement-based concrete), and the entire top and bottom pavers had simply sheared away from the concrete bed in which they were set. We knew we needed to stabilize the concrete/fieldstone joint or there would be no hope of setting the railing firmly enough. We tested beforehand using a small amount of the PC Products Epoxy Adhesive Paste and a couple of pieces of scrap, and found that the bond between stone and concrete was stronger than the concrete itself, and the finished job is rock solid. There's no doubt this is not cheap... but if you have an applicatoin that requires something really strong with awesome adhesion, this will do the job. One caveat: Remember you only have 15 minutes or so of working time, which could be shorter if it's hot. And once you stick something down and allow it to fully cure, it's not going anywhere. This is definitely "measure twice, cut once" territiry, if you catch my drift!
B**4
Used this to fix cracks in cement of garage floor. Made the crack a little wider at the top, cleaned it out, used their chaulking tube style of this product down at the base of the crack and let it harden for a day. Then applied thier two part by mixing a small amount at a time ( as it sets up fast) into the cracks filling the rest of the space. As it was winter I used a portable heater to keep the temperature up for 24 hours. Works so far ,has not cracked or flacked yet. The cartridge style of this stuff is somewhat laborious as it takes some muscle to dispense and the tubes come filled only half of the whole tube (the tube is marked with how much) so a bit pricey but so far so superior to any cements or other products tried. You really need to use the tube product first to get into the bottom of deep cracks as trying to use the 2 part is a pain. You will have a hard time getting to the bottom of a deep crack on a floor or on a wall woth the 2 part. I believe in doing a job once correctly which means a bit more money and muscle then using standard average products that will fail and you will have to fix again. Will update if there are any changes 3/31 Still going strong, but any problems and will report back. 7/10 Still working great, no cracks or flaking!
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