STAGEP-Tex Sticks

I had a deep cut that went across my Ski and was able to repair it easily with this Ptex. Can’t even notice that it was damaged anymore.

These sticks worked great but were expensive at about $2 per stick. If you have a need for both clear and black sticks and/or need a metal scraper, it might make more sense to buy a kit like  this (RaceWax Ptex Ski Base Repair Ki)  than to buy individual pieces. I found that once I repaired one board, that I ended up being the one to help out all my ski/board friends with their base gouge problems.To use this kit, I1) Clean the gouge on the board (scrub off dirt, use a xacto to cut off fraying base bits from the gouge)1) have a couple chairs to hold my board or ski flat near my kitchen stove.2) also grab a block of wood or something that you dont mind getting marred by the ptex when you put out the flame and need to place this on something (not paper)3) To ignite, I use the flame from my stovetop and hold it over the block of wood once ignited to catch the initial carbon drips4) Then with ptex and wood, i get close to the cleaned up gouge and drip a small layer onto the hole.5) I blow out the ptex and place back on wood6) Wait about 5 minutes for it to cool7) Take a metal scraper to the board and scrap off any bits that have over flowed on top.8) Repeat Steps 3-7 until the hole is completely filled. *You will want to use many layers as this is more sturdy of a repair and has less chance to clump and fall off the board in one piece than if you were to completely fill in the gouge with ptex in one go.*9) Sand down with fine sandpaper.

This worked very well to repair a 1/8" wide core shot on my skis. I don't know if the composition of these sticks is a little different than most PTEX "candles", or if it was it was the wind, but but I couldn't keep a flame going on the stick. I did the repair outside so I wouldn't stink up the house, and it was very windy. I could get a tiny blue flame but it went out almost immediately when I pulled the torch away. These sticks are definitely the smaller diameter like traditional candles, not the larger ones for use in the repair gun. I kept a torch on it and managed to get it to drip onto my base. The repair is solid and showed no indication of pulling up at the edges as I scraped the repair flush. I actually liked this better as I could more easily control how fast the material dripped, and I didn't have any problem with carbon / charring of the material at the end of the stick.

I took my board out for the first time and managed to put a nasty gash in it thanks to a rock and these had it fixed up in no time.I'd never done any type of P-Tex repair before, so I took some time to practice getting the drip and flame right on a sheet of aluminum I had until I was confident enough to move it over to the board. I was hoping it would dry more clear than white and it did, the only white parts were rough spots which I cleaned up with a second pass.The price might not be the best, but it was at my door the next day which is what I needed.

My attitude these days is that if an 18-20 year old in a shop can learn to do it, so can I (37). Armed with youtube, a lighter, a steel scraper, and some ptex, you too can patch holes and scrapes in your base. Its easy. For real, fix your skis.

What can I say but for someone in Tucson Amazon is great for getting this stuff for a person whom procrastinates ski repair right before a trip. One day shipping got my skis fixed in time for my departure on my last ski trip.

Worked really well for filling in chips and gouges in the base of my skiis. Be sure you've removed all wax and dirt from the base before using these. Under the right light I can tell where I did the repairs, but the repair is imperceptible to the touch (thanks to lots of sanding and polishing). Takes a while to actually light one of these sticks (took 2 matches, suggest using a lighter) but once it does it drips the molten ptex quickly so be prepared (more so than a regular candle for comparison).

I thought this was silly, but wow what a difference it made. I did all the work myself. Cleaned my board base, located deep groves, and applied the P-Tex, scraped and repeated until groves were leveled. After all grove were filled, used a large platic scraper and got board base nice and even. I also finished with hot waxing the base. When I got on the mountain, my board was amazing. Highly recommend anyone with groves to use P-Tex. Will buy again as I ran through all 3 already with a 150 cm board.

These worked, well, like p-tex. Which is good, because they are p-tex. Also work great for covering you finger prints for an extended amount of time. When you put a flaming glob on you finger tip, you an be sure it will stick around for a long time, and as a bonus, you wont have to worry about the burn blister popping. All jokes aside, this p-tex seemed great. I repaired some pretty sizeable gouges and they have yet to pop out. I find cleaning the area with acetone, and then preheating the base a bit with a heat gun, you can get better adhesion between the p-tex in the base. This tends to hold up better in areas that take extra amounts of flex in the ski or board

P-tex used for snowboard base repair. Works as expected. Make sure to use in well ventilated area and wear appropriate eye and respiratory protection. Smoke and smell hazard. Clear one can be used on surfaces of a variety of colours.

Worked well in repairing my ski bases.

Great stuff. Repared my skis with no effort

Great product, effective for repairing core shots. Works as well as any other ptex I have used. Excellent online instructional video's too, if you are not sure what you are doing.