Rectorseal 97647 Safe-T-Switch Ss3

item does not work

If you use this with a solenoid or a motor, make sure you use a flyback diode at the solenoid to protect from the coil's reverse voltage spike or you will probably fuse the switches contacts. I forgot the diode while testing, luckily a few taps unstuck it for me, and has worked fine since with the diode in circuit. 5 stars for sure because this is just about the only cheap float switch I could find that handles more than half an amp.

Great for the price. Like others similar switches, you can flip magnet to either normally closed or normally open. Adapted great for my application. Used on my Watchdog sump pump. Did have to flip the magnet on the slider portion. Easily popped off keeper, flipped and reapplied the keeper. which is perfectly fine and a nice feature with these types of switches.

WARNING... This switch came as a normally closed unit that opens on water rise. This is reverse logic from typical home A/C units. My A/C unit requires a switch that closes when the water is too high. If you install the switch and your A/C runs, you are good to go. If not, easy fix! Remove the C clip below the float (easy-careful), remove the float and turn it upside down. Reinstall the float and clip, and you converted the switch from normally closed to normally open. The switch will close when the pan water rises and cut off the compressor. It may not cut off the air handler (blower), so be sure to test the float positions before you finish the job. Nice looking switch. Now I need to go install mine. Aaarrrggggg!!! IMPORTANT CORRECTION: I was backwards on the switch operation. When down, it completes the red or yellow thermostat wire and allows the compressor to run. When the pan water rises, the switch opens and disables the compressor. The switch float is correct as shipped.

My initial thought was to use this switch as the first line of defense. It won't work, thus it can only supplement the draining holes. Fundamentally US HVAC design is flawed on secondary drain pan. The pan is flat, meaning any meaningful water sensing, draining will require "enough" depth. To make things a bit worse, this float works to shut off the circuit with half an inch movement, meaning the best way to install the switch would require touching the bottom of the pan. The enclosed clip sets the switch too high thus I need to flatten the metal clip and drill holes to install it. Since it is hard to drill stainless steel, I ended using the two clipper points as my drilling point, which set this switch a bit up from the bottom. The good news is, the bottom of the pan is filled with debris from Attic, thus getting away from the bottom might help to reduce false alarm. It all depends on how do you want it to work. So, this switch sets a bit too high thus it works only after secondary drain hose is blocked instead of sensing if there is any water inside the pan.