Yinlowa 1K0905851B Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder with Key for VW Jetta

Product is as described. Good fit to replace these parts in my 07 Jetta GLI. When it started up it tripped the immobilizer so I had a locksmith come program things. This key does not come with a chip to get programmed so he had to add it. I would buy this again and get a remote and built in blank that can be programmed and cut to match this new key. This saved me hundreds of dollars over taking it into a shop. Definitely not an advanced project to do on your own. Just take time and be patient.

Works great, not that hard to diy

For those who are looking at this for a replacement on their passat, it does work at least on mine. I replaced this on my 2013 passat. Below are the things I wanted to point out. Purchasing a unit: I could not find a an ignition online that said it fit the 2013 passat and comes with the white module that goes on the opposite end of the ignition switch from the key tumbler. I bought this one hoping I could swap the module from my old ignition to this one and it worked. More on that later. Removal of old unit: I did not find any good videos that talked about removing this part from a passat, and found that most things are the same as shown for the jettas and other vehicles, but there is a plastic tab that holds the left (driver) side of the ignition swith in. Watching videos for jettas, they said you push a clip with a screw driver and the ignition switch falls out, but I found that I had to squeeze the tab with pliers and pull down on the switch at the same time. It comes out, but not nearly as easily as in the videos I watched. This was the hardest part of removal for me. I included a picture showing where this tab is. I also had a little bit of difficulty getting out the screws that go into the ignition from above the steering column, but with some patience I got them out using the punch and hammer method. Swapping parts from old to new unit: To make this work for my 2013 passat, I had to swap the black module with the 6 pin connection that comes on this unit with the white module that has a chip that the connector clips onto, from my old unit. The attached pictures show the notches that you can insert a clothes pin into, to release the modules so you can swap them. I also swapped the key tumbler, so I could continue to use my existing keys. This is done by turning the key on the old ignition (this can take some playing with, if the ignition is locked up) to line up the pin hole with the dot on the black plastic, and inserting a clothes pin into the pin hole to release the tumbler. I included a picture of this as well. Reassembly: Assembling this was not hard, just make sure you get all of your connections back on and in the right place. The one thing I did differently is cut notches into the screws that secure the ignition in place. I used a dremmel to cut notches into the top of the screw head so I could use a flat head screw driver to screw them back in. I did not get a picture of this. I hope this helps others.

From what ive read, this is over $1000 from the dealership to replace. Im guessing due to having to drill bolts out, and then them charging like $300 for the part. I wish I would have caught this problem sooner, got stranded in a town for 10 hours, luckily for me, my dad had the same issue before and knew what to do. Vw uses ignition bolts that shear the head off when torqued, which makes sense in safety, it just leaves for a very expensive fix for the owner 10 years down the road. Now for the part. The quality is decent, its definitely different material than the stock one but still feels decent. The switching part itself feels nice, and works well as of 2 weeks installed. MAKE SURE YOU BRING OVER YOUR KEY AND PART THAT IT GOES INTO. THE BLACK RING IS THE PART THAT IS TIED TO YOUR CARS COMPUTER. i just used both parts that came out of my old one because they still worked and why not. Make sure you assemble the key portion into the metal switch correctly, i had to Dremel my old one because i was dinking around with it and put it in the wrong way. Now for the bolts, you need m8 size, 1.25 thread pitch, i used allen head style. The 20mm worked for me, but i also didnt torque them down as much as i wanted to, but it isnt load bearing. You probably want to use these incase this cheap part fails, but in all honesty, if you gotta replace it once or twice a year for $50, that's still gonna probably save you money compared to what the $1000 the dealership would charge. Im not saying its going to fail, but you never know. Would definitely recommend overall.

This part worked perfectly and saved me! My original part (1K0905851B) stopped working on me on Sunday. Called my local Volkswagen dealership on Monday and they estimated $300 for the part and another $300 for labor. Ordered this part instead and my dad installed it and had me back on the road by Wednesday. He watched a couple of youtube videos to figure it out and it took about 3 hours for him to install. In all, I spent $40. The only issue after it all is my steering wheel will not lock when the car is off. That's not too big of an issue. If someone wants to steal my car, please do. But everything else lines up and I've had no issues since. If I do, I'll update.

Installed on 6/8/23 and working great! I will update in the future. *Disclosure - I only utilized the ignition switch housing. Not the key tumbler or switch itself* My ignition switch housing on my 2011 VW Jetta TDI went bad. I could sometimes turn the key to auxiliary power but it would get stuck before rotating to the on position. One time I got it to the on position and turned the car on but then couldn't turn it back off. Well known shop looked at it and quoted me either $550 or $1000 depending on what was wrong. Purchased this instead and kept the original key tumbler and ignition switch and installed this housing piece with those on it. Speaking just to the housing - this product is exactly what I needed and works! Yes it was a pain to remove the old one (have to remove shear bolts) and once I did that, the install of the assembled new one was pretty easy. I'm fairly handy and do most of my own car work but still took me a good 4 hours once I knew how to disassemble the new ignition switch assembly and the old one and then reinstall (thanks YouTube). I knew going into it that the housing was bad because the electrical components worked when I could turn it just enough to get aux power and the tumbler was turning so it had to be the housing. This is exactly what I needed to save $500-$1000!

Seemed like a great value but upon installation, found the key tumbler assembly would not completely lock into the body casting completely. After wasting hours figuring my tumbler installation technique must be the problem since after starting the engine 2 or 3 times the key would just rotate. From that point I could just pull the entire tumbler assembly out. Upon looking into the interior of the body casting in that end it had not been machined and was just a rough casting. I am returning this part. After looking at several other body casting pictures on Amazon I found one that showed that end had been machined so I ordered it. This time when I installed the key tumbler portion it snapped right in and tested before I installed it. Worked perfectly and I saved about $20 since this time I purchased it without the key & tumbler assembly. It has been in about a week now and driven about 250 miles with no problem.

I only got 1 Key. Connector to ignition had 5 pins original had 3. I had to modify the ignition part.