HC6000v2 Sump Pump Float Switch: Hi-Lo Dual Sensors with Built-in Alarms | Energy-Saving, Maintenance-Free Solution to Prevent Flooding in Basements & Pools | USA-Made Reliability

Over the years, the tethered float design has proven unreliable for me; I experienced a couple of failures that caused at least one flooded basement. (I now also have a battery back-up system.) Most recently, the float switch "on" position changed a bit higher, causing my backup pump to activate. Not sure why that float changed, but it did and it seemed erratic. From the beginning, it was very tricky to install the old tethered float so that it would not touch walls of the sump or anything and to adjust it to activate i.e. turn on and off where it should. Then comes this product...what a relief! I definitely recommend the additional few dollars for the sensor installation kit; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L425Z83?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details BTW, in my system, I do not need to add a ground wire. Works perfectly without. Recommend that you test the system and only add the ground wire if it does not activate and shut off properly. Mine's working perfectly without it. Easy to install - I tie-wrapped the old teathered switch to the pump (up, so it was always ON, and then installed this electronic sensor system. I am now able to very easily adjust the heigth of the "ON" sensor; Just loosen a hose clamp a bit and can precicely adjust the height of the sensor pcv pipe the sensors are mounted on. Takes up much less room in the sump than a teatherd float switch which is important to me as I also have a backup battery system installed in the sump. Watched the operation of the new sensor and it is precise and accurate and appears reliable (no moving parts). Wish I had installed this from the beginning years ago! UPDATE 10/25/2023: IGNORE THE GUY WHO INSTALLED A RED PIPE FOR THE UPPER SENSOR ONLY. THAT DOES NOTHING TO PREVENT A STRAY GROUND FROM CAUSING THE LOWER SENSOR TO MALFUNCTION AND COULD RESULT IN THE PUMP NOT SHUTTING OFF!!!! THIS RED PIPE ACCOMPLISHES NOTHING! THAT GUY HAS NO CLUE!!! Again, I recommend that you buy and install the kit I mentioned above to install the sensors, insulating them from the drain pipe and the rest of the system. and prevent a stray ground problem in the future. It's only $10 and I think you can also get it bundled with the sensors for only $5 more.

Works great when you read the manual and follow the instructions! Included internal failure alarm in this switch worked great when I tested it separately. Loud enough to hear all over the basement. Nice feature. Simply attach a wire (not provided) from a known ground source. Existing copper cold water pipe in basement worked fine. Before using a 'suggested' grounding wire (see the manual), after initial installation, I tested the unit and it would not work properly. Grounding was an easy solution. After putting grounding wire into the sump and attaching other end to an existing grounded cold water pipe in basement, unit tested perfectly and has worked reliably for a few months, so far. DO NOT open any of your wall sockets to ground this unless you really know what you're doing!! It should NOT be necessary if you simply connect a non-provided grounding wire to an existing metal pipe, assuming that existing pipe is grounded. Contact a licensed electrician before opening up any live wall plates or connections anytime you have a basic home electrical issue! It's only common sense. I quickly got Excellent live advice from the manufacturer's help phone line (again, read the manual!). This new unit replaced an older unit from the same manufacturer which had worked seamlessly for 10 years or so. Decided to replace it with this updated unit when I replaced the old sump pump with a new one. Cheaper solutions are available, but went with this new one because of my good previous experience with the old switch. I learned the hard way (2 sump pumps ago) to NOT rely on sump pump internal float switches provided with most consumer sump pumps and have had no switch problems since I added external float switches. Not all of your old sump pumps may be easily controlled by an external switch. Some designs require you to bypass the original internal pump float switch without internal pump wiring changes. See the simple first test (below) and/or check with the manufacturer of your old sump pump to make sure before you go to the trouble of installing an add-on switch like this reviewed switch. You should be home free if your old pump installation has two separate electrical power wires which must be plugged in the wall: one for the actual pump and one for the internal pump switch. If so, unplug the old pump switch and substitute the new unit, into which you simply plug your old pump unit. If you have this existing sump setup, I'd pour sufficient water into the sump and separately plug in each of the existing wires to see if the pump starts up without a switch. If neither wire works, the pump might be dead or the breaker for that wall socket might be tripped. Don't bother buying a new switch for the old pump until you can determine the old pump still works. And even if it does work, seriously consider a new pump and switch if the old one has been in use for years. Most submerged machines don't last forever! You might save a few bucks when buying a new pump if buy a model with no internal float switch which will absolutely require an external switch like this reviewed unit. When trouble-shooting a non-working pump it's a lot easier to isolate a switch problem when you use an external add-on 'float' switch or if you have the ability to simply disconnect an internal original switch's plug and plug the separate pump switch into the wall to determine if the problem is the pump or the internal switch. Keeps you from throwing away an existing pump which still has usable life. But again, all machines wear out eventually. Like people. Pumps and switches don't last forever! Test your setup at least annually to try to avoid a very messy and expensive pump/switch failure! And an additional Backup battery pump can be excellent insurance, though even backups can fail. Good luck.

The Hydrocheck HC6000 was an easy install. I like being able to set the hi and low water level. Has been working great for the past few weeks. I have two sump pumps in my pit and one can run year round. You either have a tether float that takes up a lot of space or a float that has short cycle times. I have a spare tether and float for quick replacement, if needed. Connects right to the pipe with no moving parts. It's a bit pricey but if it lasts, it's worth it and I'll get another one for my back up pump.

Hands down the best sump pump switch on the market. If you have an active sump pump during wet periods, or high ground water levels in the area like I do, this is the answer. You can adjust the on/off position to your liking or needs, change it with the season, snow melt, rain levels, etc. A fixed mechanical switch offers none of the flexibility and reliability of this switch. I have a pretty broad throw in our pit - the distance between on and off is about 8" when it's wet out. We live in a part of town where the ground water levels rise with heavy rain and we just had 2 bad storms with very heavy rain producing about 8" of rain for the week. I had the off switch lower due to very dry weather previously but that caused the pump to run too much when the rains came, so I just went down and tweaked it. Perfect. Now we have longer run times with wider gaps between - MUCH better for the pump life as well as short-cycling kills pumps. If your sump pump is at all active, if you get tired of hearing it run too often or if it's starting and not removing enough water per run, THIS IS THE ANSWER. I just bought a new one, my last one was 7 years old with (guesstimating) 600,000 to 700,000 cycles. It still worked perfectly. When I proactively replaced the sump pump (Zoeller N98 1/2HP is the way to go IMO) I proactively replaced the switch. I kept the old switch and pump as backup, just in case. You never know. As an aside, the customer service from Stak is excellent. I've called them with questions and they are very responsive. One issue I will forewarn you about if you DO buy one, keep the switches away from the vent hole stream, if you have one drilled in the head pipe. If the pump runs too long, interference from the stream is likely the culprit. I have 7 1/2 years experience using this thing, so I know a bit what I'm talking about. It's well worth the money. No float to jam up. Reliable operation. I've directed a number of friends to these, and every one has loved it.

I hate those float style switches because they get hung up on the sides of the sump well. This can cause the pump to operate continuously, sucking the sump well dry. This not only wastes energy it also causes pump cavitation which is really bad for the pump. This is why I bought this switch - it should be impossible for this to happen. Of course today I read PH49's review. They had one fail after 2 years (I put more stock in reviews from people who have owned the product for a longer period of time) . For a switch that costs $84 this is unacceptable. Then I did a financial breakdown of what this really means... When we installed our pump 10 years ago I also installed an industrial timer/counter so I could monitor how often the pump operates (I am a gadget geek). After 10 years the pump has cycled 83,200 times for a total of 401 hours. The pump uses about 700 watts of power when it is running, so the total energy used after 10 years is 401 X 0.700 = 280 KWh. Assuming about 10 cents per Kilowatt hour this comes to roughly $3/year for electricity. We paid $500 for our industrial grade all-stainless steel pump and it is still going strong. The float switch we bought 10 years ago costs about $20 and it still works despite its shortcomings. If this HC6000 switch only lasts 2 years that is $42/year, PLUS I have to replace the switch every two years. From a cost/benefit analysis this fails, big time. Even if it lasts for 10 years that is over $8/year. If you charge $84 for a switch, fine - but it had better last. Unlike PH49 I will NOT buy another one if it fails after only 2 years, I will be back here lowering my rating. Now for the good side. It is possible to position the switches at any level you want. When I first installed the switches I thought it would be best to have one near the top and one just inches off the bottom. Now after watching the pump in action during heavy rains I have raised the lower switch to about even with the top of the pump. (When the switch was very low the pump would run for far too long. I came to the conclusion that the purpose was to keep our basement from flooding, not to drain the entire neighborhood.) Now the pump does not run nearly as often as it used to. Even on rainy days it may only trigger 4 or 5 times in a day while on dry days it rarely runs at all. With the float it would trigger dozens of times a day for several days following heavy rains. Our battery backup pump switch is positioned just an inch above the top HC6000 switch. If the HC6000 fails to trigger then the battery backup system will kick on very soon afterwards. It was difficult to configure this with a float switch, I had to position the battery backup system switch about 5 inches higher to keep the float from bumping it. HOWEVER... had I done the cost analysis weeks ago before buying the switch (rather than succumb to my gadget-geek side) I would have moved the pump off-center and continued to use the float switch. This will keep the float from hanging on the sides and might allow me to increase the float tether length.

This solved my problem of pump short cycling. We have a high water table, and pump was running every 25 minutes. With this sensor type switch I was able to cut pump cycle by 75%. Will definitely add longevity to pump life. I highly recommend this product if you have the same problem I did!

Works very well, my sump pit is not very deep so floats did not work, with this I adjust the probes were I want them. Has other nice features also, alarm & overide button.

This is the best sump pump switch I have ever had. My pump runs all the time and the gloss switches last a year or so and seem to gain in the on position killing the pump. This beep and warns you if it has a problem. I bought my first one 4 1/2 years ago and it started to act up and failed but I had warning beep so I bought another. In the meantime I emailed them to see what the warranty was and they asked what problems I was having so I explained and told them I had already ordered a new one and the credited my account because the warranty the first one. Great product I highly recommend it and appreciate the super helpful support team.

Excellent product, with great features. I put this on an older Zoeller M53 which switch's died (a common occurence) and it works great. - Works fine without a ground (in my case) - Adjustable high and low level - High level alarm - No pump current alarm - Manual operation A few things could be improved: - The alarm sound level is a bit weak, it's possible it won't be heard in a basement and/or closed pit. - The design of the probe attachment could be better, for example by allowing a plumbing collar rather than just a tie-wrap. Something similar to the Liberty SJ10 attachment comes to mind for example.

This thing is a game changer. The HydroCheck HC6000v2 keeps the area around my pool dry without me even lifting a finger. It runs exactly when it should and shuts off just as reliably. I paired it with a utility pump, and now I don’t have to babysit anything—it just works. Installation was easy, and the dual float switch gives me peace of mind. It's been working flawlessly since day one. If you’re tired of manually managing water around your pool, this is a must-have!

Item work good! No mechanical float switch to get stuck! Recommend

Works exactly as described

As someone who enjoys travelling extensively, mechanical float switches are a constant worry, as they will fail (stick on/off) without warning. This is really the last worry of leaving my house for longer periods, that has now finally been solved. I have two sump pits, and installed these switches on both. The install is very easy, including the variation for pits with high mineral content/water softener discharge. Also, the ability to set a wider high/low range, resulting in fewer pump cycles, is a nice bonus.