🔩 Elevate Your Welding Game with SONNLER!
The SONNLER Tungsten Electrode Sharpener Grinder Head is a professional-grade tool designed for precision and ease of use. It features 6 sizes and 8 angles for tungsten electrodes, ensuring perfect tips every time. With 10 double diamond wheels and 3 CNC mandrels included, this sharpener is perfect for both seasoned welders and beginners alike. Made from durable steel, it promises longevity and efficiency in your welding projects.
Manufacturer | SONNLER |
Part Number | SN-0901 |
Product Dimensions | 5.49 x 5.49 x 6.99 cm; 226.8 g |
Item model number | SN-12901 |
Colour | Silver |
Material | steel |
Power Source | ac |
Included Components | Tungsten Electrode Sharpener |
Batteries Required? | No |
Item Weight | 226 g |
W**T
Quickly sharpens even new tungstens accurately
The biggest issue with the sharpener is setting up the correct location/stickout of the mandrel so the diamond wheel lines up with the alignment hole/measurement. Once you get that set and locked separate the upper piece with the tungsten angle holes in it from the base then screw on the base onto your Dremel style tool. I used a generic on I bought separately dedicated for this purpose so I don't have to continually setup the tool to use it as I sharpen a LOT of tungstens when welding.I find that the tool gives me a quick way to put a point on the tungsten. The angles appear to be pretty correct, I haven't verified that every angle is perfect and if you notice after a bit of time some wobble will develop in the holes you feed the tungstens through if you use a drill to spin the tungstens as I do otherwise probably won't wear much. But the real world an exact angel to me isn't a requirement, more the general angle/shape of a sharp point with clean sides parallel grind marks on the tungsten leading to a more stable arc. I have yet to wear out the include diamond sharpening disks but I don't push excessively hard on the tungsten when putting a new point on tungstens, as with any grinder, file, sander... let the tool do the work, don't force it. If you force it that will just wear things out faster and your results probably won't justify the cost of replacing parts all the time.I feel it is a well made product and gives me good quality angles in the desired degree ranges I use often and it literally only takes few seconds, maybe 30 at most to get a good sharp tungsten every time, even from a flat start. I don't use the "triming" slot because I find it hard to control the tungsten stuffed down in the hole without any other support, it just ends up jamming the tungsten against the diamond when and the inside of the jig.I highly recommend it and expect to have it for a long time. Allows me to quickly prep my gear and keep welding.
O**N
I like this tungsten grinding jig.
This fits my dremel nicely and makes it easy to grind a perfect point on my tungstens. Just have a little patience and feed gently and twist the electrode, repeating until the point is as you like it. Maybe a bench grinder is faster, but you’d need a jig for that, or skill to hold the proper angle. No skill required with this jig. A couple of tips. Obviously, wear safety glasses. I’d advise against using the edge of the wheel to trim off contaminated tips. But if you must, safety glasses PLUS a face shield would be a real good idea. Yesterday, I discovered I can use the edge of the wheel to trim off my tungsten ends, wearing just safety glasses, I did this several times. Doesn’t work so great, I mostly just aimed to score the electrode so I could easily snap off the fouled end with pliers. Well, one tungsten decides to get caught, and snapped down the middle, then were flung with considerable force straight into my safety glasses. If I hadn’t been wearing them, I would have been seriously injured and probably blind in one or both eyes. I could have just as easily been hit on my mouth, nose, cheek… it would have been disfiguring. Full face shield and front protective gear would be the only way to protect against such foolishness. Best to just use the jig for grinding the tips only, as the tool is intended for, that way the tungsten can’t get caught.Tip #2. Remove the jig from your rotary tool over a trash can. The jig captures all the grinding dust during operation, and it collects in the bottom of the jig. Just like taking apart a pencil sharpener, when you take apart the jig, the tungsten dust wants to fall out. I really like how it collects the dust though.My final thought is I will probably buy a cordless rotary tool to dedicated to this jig. Less hassle than tying up my main dremel, and cordless will be a lot handier on my welding table. Just beware, not all cordless rotary tools have the standard dremel threaded accessory end.
J**.
Better than expected
Manufacturing is great, and it works great.
V**H
Worth every penny
I'm just a hobbyist, not a professional. I coupled this with a Milwaukee cordless rotary tool.I do very much like how easy it is to set my tungsten grind angle. It seems to produce a consistent grind. While my previous method of using a bench grinder and a drill did produce relatively consistent results as well, it also tended to put a bend in my tungsten.My only complaints: The grinding discs are the weak link in my opinion. They don't seem to balance well, and as such they either make a ton of racket if you run them at the low-mid speed I want. The other thing is that while I personally have largely swapped to the purple/E3 and 2% lanthanated tungstens in 3/32" and 1/8" I do have 1/16" thoriated tungstens that I use on occasion. Since I am not a massive fan of radioactive dust in the garage (heck, tungsten dust in general isn't exactly the best for you) I would love to see a version with a clear dust cover like I've seen elsewhere and/or a separate clear dust cover for sale.
B**.
Not perfect but, probably worth the $39.99
It is a good looking tool. Nothing wrong with the fit or finish. The problem lies mostly with the adjustment of the grinding disk. The instructions tell you to put 35mm between the end of your grinder and the disc. Good luck with that as it is almost impossible to get anything in there to measure. I then noticed an alignment hole on the side of the tool. I figured just insert one of the extra 1/8 shanks and push disc down until it touches, take barrel off the tool and tighten the collet? Nope. You have to have the disc on the underside of the shank like in picture 1 and 2. But it can be done by pushing the disc down a little at a time until the shank goes in. After that things work pretty well for the most part. Except for the smallest size electrodes. As you can see in pic 3 the electrode is at or off the edge of the cutting part of the disc. It s fine with the larger sizes. I myself will do a little math, chuck this thing up in my milling machine and redrill the alignment hole in the right place and be happy with a $44 tool that other brands want hundreds for. Especially since I already had a grinder. BTW, it is a Sharp Pebble brand and this tool mounts right up. All in all this isn't a perfect tool. But it does a decent job. especially if you have an extra Dremel style grinder sitting around that you can mount it on permanently. But in the end, if you want perfection with perfectly straight grinding marks, you are going to have to do it on a bench grinder, with a purpose built jig. On the other hand, pretty close is usually good enough when grinding electrodes. And this one is pretty close for the most part. And I don't know about you but, those tiny electrodes this tool has a hard time with just sit in my box and never get used anyhow. I'm happy with it. Especially for the price and will overlook its few flaws for the sake of my own laziness as I can keep this thing in my leg pocket of my work pants and not get up when I dip my electrode too far in an odd spot or need to focus the arc differently. Cheap and useful but not the best.......... 4 stars.
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