Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush | 500 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2037

My 06 Altima (185k miles) had been burning massive amounts of oil (like 4 quarts every 800 miles) due to a leaking PCV valve hose that took forever for me to narrow down (months). So after getting that under control I figured I needed to decontaminate the poor engine. When using this I idled my car to operating temp (about 8 minutes). Poured the bottle in, idled it for another 15 minutes. Drained the oil (black and thick). Put the plug back in, poured about 2.5qts of new oil in. Idled it for 10 minutes. Drained that (black but much thinner). Took the old filter off. Let both areas drain for 10 minutes. Put the plug back in, put the new filter on and filled with the 4.6qts of new oil my car calls for. Ran for a few minutes (like 2 with a few revs) and then let sit for 10 mins before checking the level. When I checked my dipstick it was so clean I thought I had a leak because I couldn't see it on any of the crosshatch. I ended up having to go by touch to get the reading. This stuff is amazing.

Excellent product. I use total synthetic oil and this product gave my engine an enema. Cleaned it out better than bran. I use it before all oil and filter changes.

This is great stuff and work will more power to the engine

I used it on a 2017 Nissan Pathfinder, and it did get "most" of the sludge out. Unfortunately, the engine was already gone. The stuff works!

Bought a used 2020 Jeep Sahara 2 liter turbo charged with 80k miles from a dealership. Dealership had just changed oil the day of purchase. Drove it home 30 miles down interstate and another 20 back roads, it ticked and tapped allot at idle and the dip stick was varnished. I added the flush, let it idle for 10 minutes and drained it. The new oil from the dealership drained out jet black, no light could pass thru it. I changed the oil with Walmart oil and a cheap oil filter and let it idle for 5 minutes to clean out all the engine flush, it drained out clean and clear. I refilled it with Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage oil and a Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter. It's been a week and the engine is noticeably quieter and smoother since using this product. If nothing else it cleaned allot of carbon from inside of my engine.

I watched several videos by professionals who used this. Follow instructions. Make sure the engine is warm before you put it in. Make sure you have everything you need. The biggest tip I got that was repeatedly emphasized by the pros was to buy a “cheap” oil in addition to the new oil. After you run the flush drain the oil and flush. Put the cheap oil in and “rinse” the inside of the engine with the cheap oil. Then drain again. Replace the oil and filter with your good stuff. I followed these instructions or suggestions and…. I sat in the truck while the flush was running. It’s a 13 year old truck with 150,000 miles. It was running strong but burning oil and kind of loud. Sounded like it was growling. There were some ticking type noises that made me nervous. As I sat in the truck and let the flush cycle through the engine at idle I could literally hear the flush working. Very slowly it was like someone gave the engine a Xanax and you could hear it getting quieter and calming down. I drained, rinsed with cheap oil only letting the cheap oil run through at idle for another 15 minutes then drained again. The oil flush was clearly important. It didn’t come out as black as the first drain but it looked like old nasty oil. The truck is no longer burning oil. My gas mileage has increased significantly and it is running so quiet and smooth it’s unbelievable. I used a little less of the liquid Molly flush than it called for regarding the flush to oil ratio. I didn’t want to do something too intense to the inside of the engine. But the results were remarkable. Just as advertised after following the instructions. I also added the liquid Molly oil additive to the final oil change to ‘lube’ the inside of the engine. I plan to do another flush in about 10,000 miles. All that to say, yes, you won’t be disappointed as long as you follow instructions and a few tips and tricks. My truck is almost running like a brand new truck and again it’s an old and tired truck. I will use this as part of a high mileage maintenance and perform the flush every 50,000 miles or so. I feel confident it will extend the life of my engine based on the results

Liqui moly has been always a great product, I love it!

I used 1/2 of this product to flush my 2014 Porsche Cayenne 3.0 turbocharged diesel prior to doing an oil change with 142k miles. Not wanting to give a glowing review of the product until I had a chance to see if there were any noticeable changes to the engine. It’s been 800 miles since using the product and I have noticed after starting and monitoring the water temp, oil temp and oil pressure the engine oil temp definitely remains much cooler than before and doesn’t reach what I believe is the normal operating temperature until having driven 3-4 miles, while the water temp comes up to normal temps as does the oil pressure. I can definitely say the oil temp is lower, which is what I believe this products is responsible for by cleaning out the engine oil pathways! I’m going to use the other half of this product in my 2011 Toyota Tundra with 260k miles. It should be noted I use Mobil 1 oil for both of these vehicles and do oil changes between 5-7k miles.

I used this on a 2002 BMW E46 I had purchased with no idea of the prior maintenance history. Engine was running a little rough, especially on cold starts despite an oil change immediately after I purchased the car. I elected to use this product for a thorough engine flush which I performed as follows: I poured in the entire contents of the can into the crankcase with the old oil, and ran for about 12 minutes at idle speeds (anywhere between 10-15 minutes is safe). I drained the old oil which as expected, was pitch black. I then refilled the engine with cheaper oil I had purchased from Ace (around 140 AED for 7L) with a brand new filter. Ran that oil for a day just to clean out any remaining deposits and solvent (even though it is designed to evaporate). Some may ridicule this as overkill, but honestly spending 160 AED for a cheap oil and filter is a minuscule price to pay for engine longevity and peace of mind. I drained the oil which had already turned a dark brown, exhibiting just how much of the old oil and deposits remained in the engine. I filled it for the the 2nd and final time with Liqui Moly's "Molygen" 5w40 which is BMW LL-01 certified. After almost 2 weeks, I've inspected the oil several times and it has remained remarkably clean despite driving almost 1,000km. The engine settles down much quicker, and is certainly much quieter and smoother before. If you are religious about changing your oil every 5,000 to 7,000km and have maintained your car since new, this product and entire process is unnecessary. Regular oil changes and the additives/detergents in modern motor oil is sufficient. However if like me, you have purchased a car with no idea of the prior history of maintenance (which you should determine from actual service records and not just the hearsay of the seller) then this is a worthwhile extra step for peace of mind.

ممتاز

¿Es parte indispensable en un cambio de aceite? No, la verdad no. Sin embargo, la fórmula cumple perfectamente con su función si sigues las instrucciones al pie de la letra. Si no sabes cómo usarlo, búscalo en YouTube (preferentemente en los canales oficiales de la marca). Entonces ¿para qué usarlo si no es indispensable?, bueno la respuesta es sencilla: para sacarle el mejor provecho al aceite nuevo habiendo limpiado por dentro el motor. Si quieres que el aceite nuevo realmente cumpla con su propósito (lubricante, detergente, etc., etc., etc.,) lo ideal es que "trabaje" en un máquina lo más limpia posible. Así que, en conclusión, es un excelente "pre" para que el motor esté en mejores condiciones para recibir el aceite nuevo.

This works great. I used it after I had just done an engine flush and oil change. Turned my fresh oil black! My truck has had the engine changed, has under 130,000 on the engine, and has been regularly serviçed with full synthetic oil etc. Not an old negleted beater. Check engine light is on from an oxygen sensor, because I ran seafoam through it when I did the first oil change. Code is cleared now, has not returned. Just before my last oil change in my 2008 Sierra 1500, with the 4.8, I added some transmission fluid to my oil (old school teick to clean engine out, I have been doing this for years) idled about 5 km, then added some store bought engine flush. Idled for 5 minutes, then drained all the oil. I jacked up my truck and let it fully drain for about 20 minutes until no oil was left. It came out black, and my oil filter was heavy I then filled it with cheap conventional oil and put a new filter on. My oil pressure went up slightly, and the lifter tick went away. I drove it for 2 days, putting less then 200 km on the new oil. It was still clean, and as clear as the day I put it in. I added this engine flush, and idled it for 15 minutes. The oil pressure went down slightly, and the lifter tick returned. This stuff cleaned a ton of crap out of my already flushed engine! Oil filter was again heavy, even after draining the oil from it for 10 minutes (not as heavy as the first one, but still, heavier then a used filter normally is) Drained all oil out again, refilled and put a new filter on. As you can see from the pictures, the oil came out black again. The oil pressure went up higher then it ever has been since I owned the truck, and the lifter tick is completely gone. Definitely reccomend this. Also, if you are at a point of doing an engine flush, I would probably do what I did and use this as a second flush, as I believe it works better then cheap store brand. How could it get the oil that black if the store brand stuff did it's job? I really did not expect my oil to be as dirty as it was

great product. I have used this flush in my Renault duster 110ps diesel after 85k run. It has removed lot of sludge.