Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm)

Great replacement part. Works everytime and saves expensive replacement OEM replacement boards

These worked great, Soldered them in and it fixed my issue. Would recommend. It is still working after a year of usage

Pool repair

It's hard to capture my Aquarite GLX-PCB-RITE circuit board symptoms, but essentially they were sporadic. Lights would turn on, then turn off, and occasionally turn back on again and off. Sometimes this would be triggered by switching from Super Chlorinate to Auto, sometimes not. It was frustrating. The GLX-PCB-DSP (display) never seemed right, either, in that it wouldn't read salt levels or try to calibrate to salt levels. Basically I was getting funky readings, though other settings on the display seemed normal. I did try to replace the display with a knock-off brand - didn't resolve. I tried a knock-off control board, too - it didn't resolve the issue, though logically, it should have. Maybe a bad board or connection somewhere(?) It was set to the correct cell type, but oh well, returned both for refunds.So I bought this Thermistor (x2) as I've run across a lot of similar symptoms to my issue online. Also bought a $20 solder kit. Never soldered before, and it probably took me longer than it should have to remove the old Thermistor, but it wasn't a difficult swap and got this guy soldered in after a few minutes. Connected the old circuit board back up and it worked beautifully! Had to change the cell settings but otherwise it was great. Lights are working and not cutting out like before. It read and allowed me to set my salt levels. No issues so far! Extremely pleased.

Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm)wrong one for me

These thermistors last about 3 years inside an Aqua-Rite chlorine generator due to a poor printed circuit board design that has insufficient heat-sinking, causing the thermistors to run very hot. So I always keep a supply of these thermistors on hand for the day when the Aqua-Rite system starts acting squirrely (sawtooth voltage pattern with about a 1-minute cycle).

Tried 1 25amp inrush limiter on a 220v mini split that draws 15amps ramp up and 3 amps while running…in rush disc got very hot you could touch it but it was hot. So I put two 25amo inrush limiters in parallel on the load and it got hot on ramp up but became between warm and hot while running…not too hot to touch but in between warm and hot. It did provide inrush protection but maybe not rated for a 240v single phase load . There is a 50amp version with a 600v rating so I might switch to that. Or mount this 25amp unit on the mini split case with thermal tape between the inrush limiter and the metal case….maybe that will cool it down some. Maybe being in between warm and hot is not a big deal…don’t know.

This part commonly burns out after 2-3 years in most chlorine generators. Of course the local pool company doesn't tell you how easy this is to fix yourself at a very affordable cost if you have experience with electronic soldering and are comfortable working with electronics. Instead, they want to sell you a replacement circuit board for around $400.This is the third time in about ten years I've had to replace the thermistor. The circuit board is easily removed (be sure to turn off the circuit breakers to the controller first!). You can simply solder out the old thermistor and solder the new one in. Replace the circuit board and turn back on the circuit breaks. You should be good to go. It is nice having the two-pack so I will have a spare ready the next time it burns out (in about two to three years).