Goodfilla Mahogany, 8 oz, Wood and Grain Filler, Stainable, Tintable, Sandable, Zero Waste, Non-Toxic, USA Made

Works great bus has strong fruity/flowery smell even in the container! Goes away when used and hardened.

WORKS GREAT, EASY TO USE, DOES GREAT JOB ! BOUGHT 1 GAL CONTAINER !

I grabbed the Neutral Goodfilla mostly for grain-filling an oak desk, but it’s turned into the catch-all fix for every nick, gouge, and pore around the house. The paste spreads like cake frosting, levels itself in the grain, and after 15 minutes is ready for 220-grit, no waiting overnight, no mystery shrinking the next day.First project was an oak desktop: one thin swipe, light sand, then stain. The filled sections took color so evenly you can’t spot where the pores were. Since then I’ve tinted small batches with water-based dye to patch a walnut coffee table and even mixed in black pigment to fake ebony plugs on a pine bookshelf. Cleanup is just a damp rag; brushes rinse out under the tap instead of soaking in solvent.• No cracking or sinking, even on deep screw holes• Accepts oil, water, or lacquer finishes without blotching• Fine sanding dust -won’t clog paper after two passesMinor warning: leave the lid loose for even an hour and the top skin starts to thicken, so I press a circle of plastic wrap against the surface before sealing the tub. Small hassle for a filler that’s saved me at least three separate products. If you work with open-grain woods or just want a ready-to-tint patching compound, this 8-oz jar punches way above its weight.

This is a great product if you know how to use it and know what it can be used for. A lot of people have given negative reviews because:1. Mixing it 1:1 creates a watery mess / it's too difficult to work with.- I personally think using 1:1 water to filler ratio as a starting point is too aggressive. You only want to add enough water so that it can be worked around. It should end up looking/feeling like mud. And I personally prefer it just a tad bit drier (it gives you less time to spread it around before it dries, but I find it easier to work with). Don't try to mix/use the whole bottle at once. If you haven't used it before start with a glob and add some water. If you use too much water, add some more filler until you get the consistency right. It's easier to add water than it is to wait for the mixture to dry out if you've added too much.- Don't use a rag to spread it around. It's way easier to spread around and provide sufficient pressure to force the filler down into the grain if you use a plastic squeegee (a credit card also works). I personally think it's easier to work with this way if your consistency is a bit off as well.2. It doesn't create a uniform surface / disintegrates, breaks off, or erodes away.- This is not wood *putty*. This is wood filler. They are two different things. Putty is more like playdough and is meant to be formed into the wood more like such. Wood filler is far more viscous than putty; it's meant to fit into/in between the grain. If you're trying to fill a gouge you need to look for putty. The first review on here with the pictures of the repaired chair is astonishing. I have no idea how that person even managed that, but I can guarantee you that sort of repair work will NOT stand the test of time with this product (or even putty for that matter) unless you plan on keeping whatever it is you're repairing in a glass case. If your furniture is that damaged, your best bet is going to be an epoxy filler.Hopefully these tips can help. If anyone is wanting more details on how to use either water-based or oil-based fillers and/or how to incorporate either of these with various types of finishes I would highly recommend "How to Understand Wood Finishing : How to Select and Apply the Right Finish" by Bob Flexner; this book is the alpha and omega of finishing.

Excellent work

It's all kinda hard in the container, and you gotta mix it with water, and even then there's still lots of little chunks. Hard to use. You can't even stir it it's so hard. Once you go through all that work then it's decent. Maybe I just got a bad batch, but I would not buy again.

I use this for small gaps between the planks in my hardwood floor and to correct small dents and splintering on small woodworking projects. I'm a complete novice and just watch YouTube videos to figure out WTF I am doing and have generally very limited patience and just want my projects done. Anyway, that's exactly why this product is great - for the small gaps I have used this product to fill, it does the job. It dries in maybe 15 minutes - I haven't actually timed it, but I usually apply some on the damaged area, leave for a while, then come back and sand it down smooth before covering with my stain or topcoat or whatever. It sands perfectly fine and I honestly can't tell the difference against my natural maple wood (which is the only wood I've used this on now that I think about it) unless I inspect it closely with a magnifying glass like inspector gadget or something, but again, I don't have time for that.A side note, I read some reviews saying the product doesn't dry or they have to leave it for 12 hours and it's still not dry. Well, you have to apply a thin layer, remove the excess, and use on smaller patch repair type projects - don't try and recreate an entire piece of wood or use this to replace a giant chunk out of a piece of wood and then act surprised when it doesn't dry in 15 minutes - it's not magic. You're going to need a resin filler or something for a project like that, not a water-based wood & grain filler...

I have a 36 year old Henredon maple wood bed that was cracking due to the dry Arizona weather. I tried other products and frankly had little hope of this making a difference. I am so pleased with the ease of application and the difference its made. I had no problem with the consistency but I think the 90 degree weather helped keep the product at the correct consistency.