Engine Enamel, High Temperature Engine Paint, 16 Fluid Ounces, White…

This stuff stretches very far and lays out great. I used a foam brush, Done 3 coats on my block and still have 3/4 can left. Olds gold has a very nice finish and sheen! Just make sure your positive on the color because once this stuff dries it's EXTREMELY tough to get off!

Couldn't believe POR made this engine color for my 1967 MG engine block. Dries slowly , looks great. Made sure you wear gloves and cover anything you don't want it on. Clean with mineral spirits before cure. Don't think you can get it off anything after it cures! Clean block well prior to use and follow directions.

Why did you pick this product vs others?: Great paint for my motor

I don’t normally do reviews, but I feel this one needs to be said. I’ve used POR15 products before and have always been super impressed. This was no different. Cleaned the block up and brushed this on by hand with a few different size brushes. Do not panic when it looks terrible at first! You will swear this stuff will never flatten out, but man does it! The first coat also had a dull appearance and I wasn’t impressed. The second coat gave it the color and depth you see. The little pint can did two liberal coats on both the engine and trans with enough for touch up left over. It’s also rock hard and you know this stuff isn’t burning off. Would absolutely use again!

There is just nothing I can say good about this paint, I absolutely detest it! I bought the MG Maroon color for my 1960 MGA engine, and it seemed fine, at first. As I assembled the engine, I could see this paint was easily chipped off and flakes off the block. Followed instructions to the tee, and I've been a painter for 25 years professionally. Then I used it on my timing cover to match the engine color...what a nightmare! While applying the paint, it is hard to spread evenly on the flat surface without it being too thick. As you try to spread it, tiny air bubbles begin to form, no matter how slow you move the brush! The air bubbles continue to surface even after you stop spreading the paint. I tried to remove the bubbles by trying to spread the paint thinner, but it creates even more bubbles doing so! As the paint begins to settle, it starts to drip and sag where you could not spread it properly, because it creates bubbles!! I tried a different brush on the second coat that had finer bristles, and the same thing happens. I tried sanding a little bit to remove the bubbled surface, and add a 3rd coat. This not only did the same thing, but when it dried, it shrank and crackled, competely destroying the part! I am furious!!! These parts a rare!! Now it will take an entire bath, soaking in acetone, to strip it back down!! Why don't they sell this in SPRAY CANS?? This has now cost me quite a bit of time and money, and I am forced to try to use it again to match the engine color!! If I could start all over with the engine, I would use a completely different paint! I cannot express enough how much I hate this garbage! This is by far the worst paint I have ever used, and I have used everything from industrial epoxy to regular house paints.