AIYIMA A07 Premium TPA3255 Power Amplifier 300Wx2 HiFi Class D Audio Amp Mini 2 Channel Stereo Amplifier for Passive Speaker Desktop Bookshelf Home Theater System with DC 32V Power Adapter

The power rating on this thing is theoretically 300 watts per channel as I understand it, it is NOT an overblown power rating but IS a deceptive one"Stock" this amp is 120w total due to the supplied power adaptor, however by using higher amp and voltage power adaptor it CAN go UP TO 300w x2 and the manual dose provide some examples to get the full powerThat is the ONLY issue I have, but other than that most of the rest of my review might apply to only a small number of people and while it suggests how epic these little amps are some of the sound quality and distortion descriptions are very unlikely to apply to mostIn my home which is a tiny house but with a few rooms rather than an open plan, I have a multiroom system with atleast 2 silk dome tweeters, 1 aluminum tweeter, atleast 4 3in mid woofers and atleast one big woofer(5in +) for midbass per room, I also have a house wide 12in sub(I significantly widen my sound with a cutoff at 50hz which makes my sub sound very loud and carry much father than it otherwise would) and many smaller subs spread throughout but not running on these amps, with multiple bbe processing dsps(widening, both high end and sub harmonics) both physical and software crossovers with highpass/low pass/bandpass as well as a eq, heavy widening and high midrange to high range enhancement this creates a ultra "airy" sound with no noticeable direction without screwing up imagining too much(stereo) but it enhances spacial imaging eliminating the need for dedicated channel speakers for the rear and sides) as well as significantly enhancing undertones across the whole range as well as "pull" vocals to the front in otherwords anywhere you walk in my house or are in my house it sounds the same( except two places which are the centers of the sound and where I sit to watch videos which has better imagining) with no sound gaps or perceived loss of sound across the whole fq spectrum and regardless of source or post processing Im able to hear voices in media without having to max the vol or background music getting in the way, it also significantly enhances the realism, a good example is a gunshot, due to how our brains work we "fill in" needed information so even with just core midrange and midbass fq we can very clearly make out something as a gunshot however the sounds a gun makes when it fires goes from subbass all the way up to the ultra-high end but the bulk of it is in the core midrange and midbass and most people hear this in media as a loud boom the whole bang, bang, bang thing but the sounds a gun makes as it fires isnt just the firing itself causing the boom noise its everything from the metal rubbing on a hand to the high pitch noises of metal banging itself or falling on the ground like a shell being hit by a firing pin or a shell bouncing on the ground, in most cases these sounds are still there but very faint and might not even be noticeable to the human ear reproduced in most media but non the less we clearly recognize it as a gunshot, what Ive done pulls ALL that out and when a gunshot goes off on tv it sounds like someone just fired a gun right next to you, it doesnt just feel like it, it sounds exactly like someone firing a gun right next to you just not as loud, all sounds the gun makes its not just a bang or bang and clink but makes all the sounds ALL of the sounds a gun would make very clear and audible, I didnt mean for this to drone on like this but I did need to explain my use case, however since I have said all this I should point out I dont just use a dsp to accomplish this I also use speaker placement, physical items such as foam to keep room vibrations down even with subbass and Psychoacoustics(the study of how our brains perceive sound and the practical applications of this, while I do pull out and enhance aspects of the sound such as my gunshot example, my gunshot example is also an example of psychoacoustics) I am a poor audiophile as such Ive had to "build" my system from scratch and from much lower end components but to be clear what Ive done is on par with 10+ grand systems(not just amps and speakers, a good example would be cinemas both public and private home versions) for not even a small portion of that priceI run most of my speakers 24/7(as such these amps) albeit mostly at low volumes for background noiseI have three one per room with one that is my core with the speakers strategically placed throughout my house with a slight underpower adding two 15ish watt 4in bookshelves and my big 80w rms bookshelf speakers with a dedicated sub and midrange woofer per speaker even then I cant turn up the vol all the way without distortion, its very mild suggesting its getting only slightly more power than it can handle causing massive wear but not enough to actually burn the voice coil out immediately but the very fact it does this suggests this amp is more capable than it would seemOne room I have zone volume control with impedance matching, the other room I just have a distroblock, the one on the distroblock gets warm, on the case but otherwise is room temp everywhere else, the other two are room temp regardless of load this suggests very high quality components and good thermal regulationThis part is just a guess as Ive never used these amps without my dsp but from what Ive noticed the imagining is amazing and a HUGE improvement over my old amps which were basically stuff I had laying around from over the years mostly low end consumer grade but it doesnt seem to amplify subbass and low end midbass all that well, I noticed a lack of bass over what my old amps produced and decided to try one of my unpowered subs on this amp rather than a cheaper one I got for my subs and it had a noticeable lack of subass it was still there and decent just far less than my old amps, however mid midbass to upper ranges seem to work just fine if not better than my old amps, this has caused major issues for me due to how I have my speakers crossed, my 12 is the only sub I have playing lower subbass most of my subs/speakers are crossed at a min of 75hz this causes the mid midbass to be noticbly louder than lower midbass and turning up the vol to a place were low midbass and high subbass is decently loud causes massive mudding Ive had to correct this issue with a eq its the only nondsp issue I use my eq for beyond tweaking for sound preference(I tend to like the "rock" eq present this preset is roughly the same regardless of the eq used(bump in low midbass/subbass, cut in high midbass/midrange, bump in ultra high end) regardless of if its music or video as such my eq reflects this) I only use my eq to correct rather than to processI havent looked under the hood so to speak as such I havent messed with the dsp chip so I cannot comment on that or the quality under but I can say the electrical protection is very good and per channel but I did have one time it didnt work correctly and very easy to reset by turning it off then back on no need to wait or unplug, my personal experience is with overdriving and short circuiting, both allowed the amp to still drive the channel that wasnt affected, I should also point out that I accidentally had a long term short circuit on one channel and I didnt notice it so while it is nice to have this protection per channel and it works very good most of the time its not without its drawbacks, it didnt catch fire nor burn out but it did make the amp hot not burning your fingers or anything but not warm ether this is how I became aware of the short that I noticed the amp was getting hot, it should have a thermal cutoff as well but Ive never been able to get them hot enough to trip it which to me is more evidence of its good thermal regulationThey seem to be very well built the whole case is metal with rubber feet, the twist connectors are nice and more secure and easy to thread wire through however the plastic surrounding the lug is easy to break if overtightenedFor most use cases the single vol knob is nice, the design is so simplistic it looks very good however I will add that the major reason I got a zone control was for volume matching if you use the amps like I do to run multiple sets of speakers Id highly recommend it to get the most out of it, most of the issues I had with volume matching wasnt really due to spl(it did however make it harder to match spl between the amps with differing volumes causing sibilance but I strongly suspect this wont be a issue for most) it was due to not being able to use all the speakers to the best of their ability and placing speakers at differing distances causing uneven soundSo in short these things seem to have power for days even with speaker matching/maxing the amp out and/or impedance miss matches, but the title of 300w x2 doesnt seem to be a lie however I havent tested it and its highly deceptive as that is the max the amp can handle not the amount supplied with the power supply that comes with it which is 120w total, thus requiring an upgrade in supply to reach the described wattage claims, however while my use case is rare as such it may not apply to all, from what Ive found they lack good low bass processing but have very good imaging, build quality is ultra-high, thermal regulation is very good, electrical protections are easy to reset and very good in most cases however the design of per channel protection is a cool feature but Im not sure if its better and can lead to issues if your not careful, the simplistic design looks very good and Ive had atleast one for over a year running 24/7 with zero issues however mostly at low vol for background noise but non the less that shows its durability

TLDR; ELAC Debut 2.0 + Aiyima A07 + OP275GPZ Op Amp DIP = you'll thank me later.I have an IOTAVX amp with Triangle Borea BR03 combo that I compare this with. The IOTAVX combo has more deeper bass and sound stage but really not by much... I love both. Let's just say had I only gotten the ELAC Debut 2.0 + Aiyima A07 + OP275GPZ, I would have been really satisfied. Heck, I wouldn't even know which combo I pick if I HAD to choose.. So yea.. wow!Also, I have very sensitive ears due to being young and dumb standing next to a speaker in a club for hours and not realizing that I was going deaf when I got out of the club. Now whenever I hear speakers with too much pressure from bass my ears go into a fritz and it sounds like a broken speaker. So I can only buy speakers that don't make my ears hurt. Some no-no brands for me were Creative Gigaworks, Edifier S2000MKIII, Fluance Ai41 to name a few. Triangle Borea BR03 and ELAC Debut 2.0 is great for my ears.Background:I bought a set of ELAC Debut 2.0 B5.2 Bookshelf Speakers during Christmas cause it was on sale, originally I was only looking for a tiny computer speaker that could make some noise when I was playing games but the sales and thought of getting something good made me go down this rabbit hole.So I had to look for a cheap desktop amp cause I didn't want to take up too much space.. saw the Aiyama 07 amp and read the reviews, sounded good. Powerful enough for any speaker and small footprint. Then one particular review caught my eye.. they changed Op Amp DIP and the sound made a huge difference. Being a tinkerer I couldn't resist.Scared of breaking the amp?Don't be, it's pretty easy to open.. just use one of those L shaped hex wrench and unscrew the top 2 screws of the amp. There's a small phillip screw in the back that you need to remove. Then loosen, don't completely remove the bottom front with the hex wrench and you can pop the top piece right off.Use a mini needle nose plier to remove the 2 Op Amp DIPs that are located near the front. Note what direction the half rounded side of the DIP is going into the sockets. Slowly pull upward without squeezing the plier too tight until you loosen it. There are 2 of them. Pull them both out.Now the hard part, putting the new OP275GPZ in. Just use the plier to slowly lower it down into the holes but MAKE SURE you are matching the side that has the half rounded (as opposed to the straight edge side) down on to MATCH the drawing (white layout) on the board. If you put it the wrong way and turn on the amp, you'll blow it to smithereens. It's easy to match up though.. just pay attention and look at the drawing on the board. Anyways, after you have inserted both.. close it right back up and enjoy!Comparison of Op Amps:Based on reviews that people left on Aiyima A07 review page, I did AB testing on a few Op Amps.1. First original amp as-is. It was okay, Nothing special but powered the speakers okay. I thought maybe the speakers were only okay.2. So, I bought LME 49720NA NSC Op Amp DIPs ($11 for 5) cause people said this was pretty good upgrade. But man.. it sounded like the left side was softer than the right and I had to +loudness on the left side to sound equal. Played it for a bit just to make sure I wasn't hearing things.. nothing special in separation of instruments, no sound stage as a matter of fact.3. I finally tried the OP275GPZ ($15x2) and if this one didn't work, I was going to go all out and buy some Sparko SS3602 Dual Discrete Op Amp that people were raving about but it was significantly more expensive ($80 with 15% off).LUCKILY, I didn't have to go that far as to buy the Sparko.. curious as to what it might sound like but i don't wanna use that much money to test something. Anyways, These OP275GPZ are INCREDIBLE. The sound separation or sound stage from these ELAC is like from above your head to about as far as your arms can reach. There is very very clear separation of each instrument. And it sounded louder than all the previous DIPs that I tried. This one is just amazing. In fact, I think I'm writing this review just for myself so I won't forget what I did when the Aiyama breaks a few years down the line.You will hear a huge difference.. I'm re-listening everything now and it's just AMAZING. Enjoy!I will be leaving the same review on OP Amp and speaker review pages.

I've only used higher power receivers and stereo amplifiers in the past. I am amazed at how well this little Class D wonder manages to power my Klipsch RP-600M. Runs cool, has ample power with its stock power supply to well exceed my listening comfort without sounding distorted. The aux output works great as a subwoofer out in this model (apparently in preceding models, it would not raise and lower the volume of the aux jack with the main volume knob, but it does now, really well). We've watched movies and the impact and lively sound is all there, it can keep up with any music or gaming we've thrown at it too. In no way has it been deficient and I'd dare say that it's as good as the solid state amps I've relied on in the past. Shaking my whole thinking up here!I am sure having reasonably efficient speakers helps - from what I've read its real output with the stock power supply is around 75-80W max per channel with the stock power supply. But with these RP-600M in an indoor setting that's extremely loud and sounds great. It's easy to set up and integrate into your system, too. I'm using it with a few Schiit Audio units, namely their Modi DAC, Loki Mini Plus EQ, and Magni Heretic preamp, which gets my signal ready to go and gives me control over the tone and level. I don't know how it would sound just coming off of my PC's sound card, but like this, it's been awesome.I can't speak on its long term reliability yet but I'll check back in a year or so and update my review. Assuming that it holds up well, I will probably end up getting another for another room!