Whirlpool 279827 Dryer Drive Motor

Dryer motor 279827. From PARTSHOUSE. Mexican made FSP-Whirlpool part, works great. NOT a cheap Chinese copy. This is a new part, not rebuilt. Ordered Feb. 2013 through Amazon 8pm Friday night on long weekend, therefore no Monday mail. Arrived in Boston Wed. AM using standard shipping (USMail). Shipped from PARTSHOUSE in PA. Also bought belt 341241 which appears generic even though photo shows an FSP-Whirlpool packaging. Saved old belt for a spare, just in case. This motor is so quiet I can now hear the air going up and out the exhaust. The old motor must have been junk for a very long time. Eventually it started overheating and shutting down, and would make a buzzing sound at start-up. Motor bearings were squeaking too. While I had it apart, changed the drum rear rollers, cleaned it all up, and scraped every bit of the noise-generating caked-on gunk out of the rear roller track on the drum, and I am waiting for front and rear drum seals and front drum glides from another vendor, who is not as quick as Amazon's Partshouse. New appliances seem to have a very high failure rate and a short lifespan, so for less than $150 I changed out the guts on this old Whirlpool and it's better than new. There are online appliance repair clinic videos on other sites which also sell parts. If you're a little bit handy, these appliances are fairly easy to fix. When ordering this motor, be sure the bearing color is the same as your old motor (blue or orange). The part numbers are similar for similar-looking motors, so be careful. Also, the fan has REVERSE THREADS on the motor shaft, so "right is loose, left is tight" in this application, instead of normal left-is-loose-right-is-tight. I hope this helps someone get their stuff going again.

This is a good replacement OEM motor for my 30 + years old dryer. The instructions were reasonably clear. Note that this motor will retrofit many models so it may require some minor customizations (instructions include them all in a brief manner). The metals slotted bands which hold the motor in place are tricky to remove and you could get hurt from their sharp edges. Using a screw driver to stretch the bands to remove or secure them on their place can cause the screw driver to slip and cause serious cuts. A nut driver with a small socket to hold the curled edge of the metal bands worked better since it will not easily slip off the metals band ends. But, be careful in this step. I made one wiring error which gave me a lot of grief. The instructions asked to remove and discard a short blue jumper wire between the 'overload switch' and the 'motor switch' (which has multiple male spade terminals). I realized that I had mistakenly connected the 4A blue main harness wire (from the dryer) to the terminal 4 on the motor switch side (a 1/8" spade connector) where the rest of the dryer harness connections were made to connect. The right thing to do is to connect the 4A blue main harness wire (from the dryer) to the overload switch side which has a wider spade (1/4") connector. (The dryer harness had a female 1/4" spade connector - which mated perfectly). Once having fixed the connection, it worked perfectly. (I wish the FSP instructions were a bit more clear). To check correct connections, do the following at your own risk and only if you understand how to wire and understand electrical connections. Do not put in the drum and belt. Disconnect main plug of the dryer. Complete all dryer harness to motor connections, secure motor with its bands. Do either Step A or B: Step A: Bypass the door switch (Note: One side of the door switch wire has a single wire running to a single spade terminal. This is the hot wire. The other side of the door switch has two spade terminals and two wires. Depressing the door switch (when dryer door is closed) allows the motor to turn and shuts off the drum light. On opening the dryer door, the non-depressed switch shuts the motor and turns on the dryer light). With door switch disconnected from all three wires, find which of the two spade connectors shows continuity to the single spade connector on the other side of the door switch when the door switch in its depressed position (This will be the terminal whose wire allows power to the motor). Short the door switch hot wire to this wire. OR, skip Step A and do Step B: Step B: You can remove the door switch from the dryer panel and make the connections normally. Ensure insulation of the door switch terminals from everything else. Leave nothing exposed to making grounding shorts to dryer body. Check all connections carefully and out in the dryer plug. If you did Step A, then the motor should run only upon hitting the 'Start' button and stay on. If you did Step B, then you will need to additionally depress the door switch while making sure that the door switch terminals do not touch you or anything else. Again,ensure insulation of the door switch terminals from all else. Motor should run only upon hitting the 'Start' button and stay on. Releasing the door switch button should turn it off. The motor tends to have a bit of a howl when warm.

My old motor quit working on my Whirlpool dryer, and I replaced it with this one. I have had no problems with the replacement motor, it all went together well enough, the part replaced the OEM part with no modifications or issues. If you are looking at this same motor for your broken dryer, just get that plastic fan that is attached to one end of this part. I had to destroy my OEM fan to get it off, due to age, though sometimes you get lucky with it. That meant waiting a week without a dryer, waiting for the replacement. The new fan is also on Amazon and cheap, save yourself some grief and order it too. You may as well also replace the pulleys and the drive belt, you'll have to take all of it apart to do this job. Also cheap. If you want to pinch pennies, though, I could have skipped the pulleys and belts without issues and just used the old stuff.

Worked on this 25-year-old dryer.

This motor worked well so far. Amazon.ca was cheaper than local part stores' prices and the delivery was quick (the amazon.ca price has gone up). It is important that you know what you are getting into: watch online videos about dryer repairs. Make sure that you are getting the right part. Diagnosis is sometimes tricky. I first tried one of these but it didn't solve the problems https://www.amazon.ca/Factory-Original-Whirlpool-4392065-Rollers/dp/B00DQCK0EU/ The motor is connected to a blower wheel. Ours was impossible to separate without destroying it so we needed a new blower wheel too. If you check before you order, you could order both at once which would cut down waiting time. I'm impressed that parts were still available for a 30+ year old dryer. I had to do a bit of wire stripping and connector crimping since the connections have changed (but the bits were included and so were the terse instructions). With an old dryer, consider replacing the whole thing.

Exact fit, great price, whoo hoo the kenmore dryer is running like it was brand new!

Easy to install. Works perfectly. The price was quite good.

Perfect fit. Needed small rewire as per instructions include