ASUS Sabertooth X79 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Components:1. Intel 3820 CPU;2. Sabertooth x79;3. Ram - 16GB ram Corsair Vengeance (2X8GB);4. Storage: 3GB HD with 240GB Samsung 840 SSD - both in SSD cache ports, 1GB HD, OCZ 120GB SSD (hopefully for operating system boot);5. (2) Asus DVDs - Blue Ray and DVD player;6. Cooler Master HAF case with front header ports plugged into the one power connector on motherboard;7. Roswell Flash Card reader with single power plug with no power connector to connect it to;8. Corsair TX 750M9. Evo 110 cooler (single fan)10. Case has standard 3 fans, Sabertooth has two small fans - on back ports and on e-sata bank, EVO 110 CPU fan, and one on power supply.11. Gigabyte GTX 660 video; and12. Asus new standard wireless card.A very smooth installation. No damaged packaging. No incidents during installation. Two ram modules inserted in correct banks for two modules. Sabertooth has a few warning lights on motherboard one of which is for the CPU. Upon powering up - yes, the CPU light went on. I powered down and reset all cards, memory, and the data and power cables on both ends. Memory was swapped and then went with one 8GB module and then the other module alone - in the proper slot for one module. Each change was done while powered down and awaiting the boards own power light to go off. (When I realized that the board had power for some 15 seconds after being turned off, I also unplugged the power cable itself each time). Upon making each change, the computer was rebooted. I also inspected the 3820 but as it has no traditional pins there is not much to inspect. It looked right, whatever "right" is. Nothing appeared to be missing; nothing appeared to be damaged. Even the the small stripe of thermal paste recommended for this particular chip at the particular location for this chip had spread nicely. I reset the CPU three times trying to minimize the touching of the edge of the paste. Yes, the CPU was properly oriented at all times.Then, after powering down, one by one I removed each component's data and power cable and rebooted. Upon each change and reboot, the CPU light went on and remained on. I finally was down to the power supply, the motherboard and the RAM. I then removed the memory but I was still Blinded by the Light. BTW all standoffs were used and each screw was hand tightened lightly. There would be no explanation for a short or damage to the board. (The work was done in a clean, air-conditioned environment).I went to Amazon Customer Service with this situation and asked them to go with the odds - that the motherboard was defected. No problem. If you don't already know, Amazon is just the best. Immediate emailing of UPS postage for return. No questions asked. If you haven't checked them out recently, they have virtually whatever you need. I buy everything there (almost) because even if clothes don't fit, it's no hassel. You go into your Account and print out the return postage. It's just that simple. Sorry for the segue but I feel so strongly about the quality of their service.So, did I take the proper approach at diagnosing the problem? Is there something I should do in the rebuild (once the Asus is back in stock and shipped out)? Should I install a minimum of components in rebuild to power on with, e.g. no DVDs, no HDs, no SSDs, no header ports? Will the power supply, CPU, RAM and motherboard take me past CPU light (if all is well otherwise) and get me into the BIOS for an update? I realize the BIOS would need to be reconfigured once remaining components are installed. My feelings are leaning to going through with a complete build and power it up. There's nothing so unusual about having a fully populated computer that would prevent a diagnostic warning light from coming on!In regard to not having a second USB power connector on the motherboard for my flash memory card, I know I can find another type. I understand, however, from reviewing the specs that the Asus Deluxe has two power connectors but I only see ONE in the limited photos - in the normal Asus location above the e-sata ports. Does anyone have information on this connector? and comments upon the build (hopefully complimentary or constructive, but okay - let me have it if you need to).BTW, one minor complaint. With the Sabertooth and the HAF case I used (922?), the placard supplied by Asus to label their rear ports does not fit in the case. In this regard, the two dimensional size is right but the placard cannot be pushed enough inside the case's recess that Cooler Master provides. Thus, the motherboard is pushed a fraction of an inch off the case's rear and it cannot be lined up with standoff sockets. (The motherboard cannot be installed "flush" against the rear of the case). I installed the board without it; I just double taped the label and hung it next to the ports until I am certain I am familiar with each one's function/spec.Needless to say, assuming the motherboard is defective, it is very disappointing. In building a computer, a defect is generally a problem that is just on a different scale from the TV that doesn't turn on. It requires many hours of assembly, dis assembly, reassembly and testing. And then there's the watching of all the You Tub videos to make sure you haven't made a mistake. You would think a company that has finally come out from behind the scenes and now is actually recognized by end users as a major player for many products, could test their boards before shipment to make sure their new image is not tarnished. Of course, if the motherboard was not the cause of the failure of this build, I will update these comments and apologize to Asus.The five stars is because this thing is beautiful, appears very well designed save the limit of one USB power connector, and should be a monster when it operates. Also, I don't think any other major motherboard manufacturer has a better record re: DOAs.UPDATE: 2/28/2013Well, as usual, Amazon Customer Service was great. After doing every possible means of troubleshooting available to me, my research showed that the CPU warning light on the board was more likely a board defect rather than the CPU. I so advised Customer Service and they had the replacement to me the next day. Now, instead of doing a complete rebuild, I built the motherboard outside the case. I added back the 16GB Vengeance ram, the Cosair 750w enthusiast level power supply, and the Intel 3820 after lightly removing the thermal cream. I added the EVO cpu cooler back on and connected the power switch from the case to the motherboard. I replaced the power line, and switched it on, which resulted in the motherboard ready light coming on. Then I held my finger over the case's power switch for what seemed like an eternity. I couldn't pull the trigger! Finally, I the pushed the power button down and ... ON went the CPU light!!! What a sickening feeling. The 2011 motherboard is going to be obsoleted in a few months and I still don't have the unit running. I emailed them and a new CPU was received by overnight mail. It hasn't been installed yet.Well, again, it is not Amazon that is the cause of my finishing up the build. They are great and that's why I purchase almost everything there from vitamins to all my computer components, to ... everything that has Prime shipping. I hate the big stores(maybe a touch of claustrophobia?) and I am disabled with a bad back. Regardless, I get great prices, no taxes and no shipping so even no matter what, I look to Amazon first.UPDATENew CPU came overnight mail. Amazon, you are the best. I figured that this time I was NOT going to go through an entire build before knowing I had an operational motherboard/cpu. I had already replaced the motherboard and had a CPU failure again. (Well, the light was on again). I have done a number of builds without a problem. I re-familiarized myself with the different design of the CPU and the 2011 socket. I knew to reject the manual contained with the CPU which in no way matched my setup, and followed Assus' Insert instead. It was an important enough that they produced a multi-page brochure to make certain that you followed their socket design and not Intel's exemplar in their manual. For the nth time I placed a small line of thermal paste on the CPU in the manner and location recommended for this CPU. (In fact, in prior installations the paste spread in seemingly the manner designed. The pressure from the Hyper 212 caused the paste to spread over the surface without leaking out.So this build was done outside the case. The Corsair TX750W Enthusiast Line power supply was plugged into the board. The Vengance RAM was installed in the proper slots for two modules. And, here we go again, I followed the "mandated" order of opening the socket, inserting the CPU and removing the socket cover. I followed the order of locking the CPU in place. (The CPU has an arrow in the corner that matches an arrow on the socket. Further, there is a dot in one other corner of the CPU which, not uncoincidentally, was located in the proper corner of the socket after installing the CPU per the arrow. The CPU goes in easily and settles in obvious place. The two levers, operated in order, locks the CPU in. I hooked one line from the computer case onto the Power Switch on the board. I put the plug into the back and turned on the switch at the back of the case. This provides power to the board but doesn't boot it. I guess it's like a TV that pre-armed to be turned on. The board's power light appropriately goes on. Then I carefully depress the power switch causing the one fan built into the board to activate - and the CPU light to come on again. I waited a few minutes. No change in circumstances. I unplugged the computer and waited for the board's power light to go off. (It really does take about 10-15 seconds to totally de-engergize). I removed one module of RAM and left one module in the single module location. Same process, same failure. I repeated everything with no RAM. Same result.The only component left was the new power supply which ran all the components during the first few installations, when they were all attached. I just cannot believe that the power supply would be the cause of the CPU light, but the alternatives are hard to imagine. A bad batch of CPUS or Asus Motherboards? My incompetence, but how? I figured that enough was enough and returned the big two components. So, I am left with a beautiful Cooler Master case, two SSD drives, a 3TB and 2TB drive, some nice looking RAM, a Gigabyte GTX 660 video card, two optical drives, and a quagmire of power and data cables seemingly entwined when just a short while back they were beautifully managed. (BTW the Asus plastic, labeled USB, Ethernet, etc. cover will not fit this case with this Asus motherboard. When using the set-offs it brings the board too tight against this insert so that the inserts cannot be matched to the screw holes. And, just to save some time on anyone that has an opinion as to the problem - I did not over-tighten the offset screws, I did not over-tighten the Hyper 212, I placed the CPU in without problem and I didn't mishandle the CPU or motherboard. Static electricity is not a big problem in a/c homes and was dealt with anyway.I would appreciate any opinions as to the build AND as to a CPU/Motherboard replacement. I think I already had the best combination - other Ivy CPU's are actually more expensive and not quite as productive and the boards for those chips don't present much of a saving. Also, Haswell seems to be a wattage improvement for mobile with little, if any, increased production for a desktop.Criticism or help would be appreciated. (Please, I love AMD in the right time and place. But this was to be a top of the line build so a Fusion suggestion would not be appreciated). Also, I really would prefer not to move up in the 2011 line with a $500/CPU. The CPU light would probably come on anyway.

I purchased this board two months ago for my first build in preparation for the Diablo 3 and Max Payne 3 release. Although the memory specifications for the Sabertooth X79 were overkill, no game really requires over 8GB of RAM (not even that much), I wanted to make sure that my first build would not require an upgrade for some time to come. Upon receiving the board I flashed the BIOS and conducted a POST before running installing the OS. After installing Windows 7 Ultimate the board worked perfectly recognizing the 8X4GB of RAM. Everything check out fine; smooth sailing. That is until two months later... Powering on the system I discovered that the system was registering only 16GB of RAM instead of the 32GB I installed the two months earlier (I check at least once a week in "computer properties" to verify everything is running okay). Upon resetting the system to access the BIOS, RAM slots A1, 2 and C1, 2 were giving a status of "abnormal" or DRAM Error. Sections A and C giving duplicate uniform error codes seemed a little too suspicious to be a RAM error. Investigating, I removed Section's A and C in order to check if 16GB of 32GB of RAM failed overnight. Powering up with only Section B and D loaded with 16GB of RAM I than confirmed that the motherboard was only registering 8GB of RAM. To confirm an error of RAM installation on my part I double checked ASUS's instructions in the operational manual to see if I had installed the RAM incorrectly and begin the long arduous process of 1 stick RAM verification. Sometime later everything checked out fine but the system was only registering 8GB which was strange. Again I conducted a reset of the system and accessed the BIOS to check the status of the DRAM. This time Sections A1 and B1 were giving off the "abnormal" error status. In short after some tinkering I was was able to get the system to recognize 16GB or RAM (up from 8GB)at my workstation however once I moved the system back to my office it would not POST and gave the error signal of one long beep followed by three short beeps (VGA failed detection) so I have concluded that the RAM is not the issue but rather the motherboard. The RAM that I am using is Corsair Vengeance which is on the RAM approved list and a Galaxy GTX 680. I fine it highly unlikely that both RAM and Graphics Card are the issue. As of this writing I will be sending this board off to ASUS for RMA. As mentioned in the title of this review, this board has alot of great features for anyone who trying to squeeze every last dollar of longevity from an expensive home built system: 64GB of RAM, temperature/controlled monitoring software, military grade components, lots of ports, and a five year warranty. However, I just wished that it would have lasted a lot longer before my first RMA. At this rate I will go through a ton of boards before the 5 year warranty is up.My Build:i7-3930kH80 Liquid CPU Cooler(Average non work CPU Temp in 75F room is 28C/84F, Average work (Max Payne 3 and Diablo 3 on high settings 1920X1080P)CPU Temp is 40C/104F with H80 on the lowest setting.32GB Corsair Vengeance RAMSabertooth X79 Intel MotherboardAverage non work motherboard Temp in 75F room is 38C/100F, Average work CPU (Max Payne 3 and Diablo 3 on high settings 1920X1080P) Temp is 47C/116F.GTX 6801200W Cooler Master Silent PRO Power SupplyHT Omega Halo Sound CardCooler Master HAF 942 Case 4X120MM FansSamsung Blu-ray Drive2X128 SSD (total 256)1TB Hard DriveNote: Plan to overclock in the future once tech comfortable with tech knowledge.

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This motherboard is a best, not the best one out there but for the price it offers so many features. USB 3, Sata 6gb, tons of other ports. I just wish it had more Intel Sata 6bg ports. Takes upto 64 GB DDR ram which is killer. Can't complain too much cause its a few years old but it will last me for atleast 5-8 years. Hopefully Asus makes it very simple to upgrade bios in the future, and by that I mean super simple for people who aren't tech savvy

Near perfect

All was perfect, but like 2 years later the internal Ethernet connection died so I had to buy an Ethernet PCI Expres to keep the machinne working.

One year later it's still performing well. Love how it resets everything if I misconfigure things while overclocking, saves me a lot of trouble. Only complaint is sometimes it can't seem to find the operating system, happens once a blue moon and is fixed by a simple restart.