ERP IG9998 Universal Gas Range Oven Igniter

So far the igniter is working well. Installation was simple and while the unit it was replacing only has one tab for installation on the right side of the burner, the ERP IG9998 has mounting tabs on both sides. Depending on the oven, the unused tab may get in the way of installation, in which case, you can simply bend the unused tab out of the way. Installation is quite simple: First unplug the oven; most Kenmore and other similar ovens connect a relay to the neutral line instead of the hot line, thus even when not heating, one line going to the igniter is live at all times when the oven is plugged in. On the old igniter that you want to replace, cut the wire close to the old igniter. After that strip the insulation of the wire about 7mm. On the ERP IG9998, if the pre-stripped wire is not stripped enough (my unit only had around 4mm of the wire stripped), then strip off some additional insulation. After the wires for both ends are properly stripped, twist them together (clockwise), and then twist on the ceramic wire nut as well. Once you have confirmed that it is on firmly, repeat the same process with the other wire. After that, tuck all excess wire below the heating platform, the area near the gas safety valve of the oven remains cool during normal use, thus is a good place to fold all excess wire near. Igniters fail over time, and the failure mode is a gradually increasing resistance. Due to the way that gas safety valves are designed, an igniter that is perfectly capable of lighting a flame, as even when drawing 2 amps instead of 3.6 amps, it gets more than hot enough to ignite the gas. The problem is that the gas safety valve uses a winding of nichrome wire where when 3.3-3.6 amps flows through it, it gets hot enough to change shape enough to open a gas valve. If the resistance of the igniter increases enough that the amperage draw falls below 3.1 amps, then the nichrome wire never gets hot enough to open the gas valve fully. Gas safety values use this design because it ensures that if an electronically controlled oven loses power while running, then the valve automatically closes. Igniters would last far longer if they could make the gas safety valves to work with a minimum of 2.5 amps instead of 3.1 amps. This is also why you will notice where a failing igniter will cause your oven to take a very long time to preheat. PS, if an igniter fails to a short, it will destroy the gas safety valve, since the nichrome wires used will have a very low resistance, often 1 ohm or less, and there are no additional current limiters on the power rail, the igniter itself is effectively the current limiter, thus a short in the igniter will immediately burn out the nichrome wire. Anyway, the igniter works well for restoring normal oven functioning as well as normal preheating speed.

Worked like a charm on our 24 inch Premier stove. Gas off. Replace. (Thank you for the included ceramic wire nuts) Gas on. Bake away. Would order again, but hope I don't have to.

Fits perfect. Easy to install. Oven is back to working again.

Works. I had to replace mine. It ships fast and it works.

Easy to install. Two screws, and connecting two wires. Repair took about five minutes. Of note, my 48 inch JennAir “professional series“ needed a FS terminal to connect one of the wires. (this is for the small oven on the left side. I’ve replaced the igniter on the large oven at least three times and both of those connections are bare wire to bare wire joined by a standard twist cap ). It was easy to crimp on a female terminal to the bare wire then connected to the male terminal inside the stove, but it was an unexpected step.

DO NOT BUY I wrote a review about this ERP IG9990 Igniter at least 10 years ago, recommending it as the quality was on par with the OEM version. Unfortunately ERP is now getting this part from a different manufacturer as evidenced by the build. The wires are no longer potted into the insulator, which means anyone installing these will need to pay attention and insure there is no strain on the wires as it is easy to cause separation. I won't speculate on why the change as I'm sure most of you can read the writing on the wall Update 10/17/24 These hot surface igniters are now garbage. Though just recently installed the internal resistance varies from unit to unit. This is important as the amount of current that passes through the igniter is what opens the gas valve(s). I have two on my oven, one unit works normally, the other is only opening half way. As I predicted when I saw the build on these; ERP has found a new Chinese supplier which translates to lower cost to them and a bad experience for the consumer

I bought this to replace the oven ignitor in an older Frigidaire gas range. The old ignitor still glowed red but the measured current draw was only 2.6 amps, which is too low to activate the gas valve. The new ignitor draws 3.6 amps when fully heated, and the gas valve now opens. I used a Dremel with an abrasive disc to cut off the extra mounting tab due to lack of clearance. Some people say you can bend an interfering tab out of the way, but I didn't want to damage the rest of the assembly in the process. Only time will tell how long the ignitor lasts, but you can't beat the price.

Works just fine and the out unbeatable!